Guigal of Côte Rôtie may be the biggest fine-wine producer in the northern Rhône, constantly expanding, with its sky-high prices for the single-vineyard La La Côte Rôties and a very substantial business making a range of other wines right down to Côtes du Rhône with admirable attention to detail. Chapoutier is to be congratulated for going out on an organic and single-vineyard limb, while the new owners of the substantial Paul Jaboulet Ainé, the Frey family, have some wonderful assets to work with. But no one is respected more than Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, much further south, and their very much...