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Last week I tasted the wonderfully transparent wines of René Rostaing of Côte Rôtie. According to him, in the northern Rhône, '2000 and 2001 are the equivalent in sheer quality but are very different in style. The 2000s are easy, open and supple – and will be very attractive – but don't have exceptional personality, while the 2001s are more variable but more interesting, more sportif if a little more rustic and tough.'

His Côte Rôtie 2000 Côte Blonde, René Rostaing looked particularly lovely (although the only red 2001 he showed was his basic Côte Rôtie which was still looking...