Double vision in Montalcino

The very young Campi di Fonterenza estate, founded only in 1997 and run by twin sisters Margherita (left)  and Francesca Padovani, is one of the producers notoriously absent from the annual Brunello en primeur tasting. I have lamented this situation before, because in order to capture a complete overview of the latest Brunello vintage I have to jump into a car in between tastings and rush around the region to fill in these 'missing links.' [It's just like that in Bordeaux, Walter – JR]

Like others they do not participate, I suspect, because they do not feel the...