At the age of 76, an extremely fit and dynamic Angelo Gaja greeted us at dinner during a celebration of UK importer Armit’s 20-year relationship with one of Italy’s highest-profile wine personalities, silencing any possible rumours of his retirement. But a generational change has slowly been put in place, with his and his wife Lucia’s three children Gaia, Rosanna and Giovanni taking over the daily running of the business. It is especially Gaia, who, at her father’s side, has become the new face of the estate.
It was a gradual shift, but one that took on speed last May when...