Godforsaken Grapes
A slightly tipsy journey through the world of strange, obscure and underappreciated wine
Jason Wilson
Published by Abrams Press
ISBN 9781419727580
$26, CA$31.95, £20
I can’t but help love a wine book that starts, ‘In the Swiss canton of Valais, melted cheese is serious business.’ The second paragraph describes Humagne Blanche as ‘strange and big and sexy, full of ripe exotic fruit surrounded by delicate floral aromas – sort of like mountain flowers picked by a Kardashian wearing a dirndl.’ I’ve tasted Humagne Blanc with raclette in the Valais. You’ve nailed it. You’ve got all my attention, Mr...