I have already published notes on hundreds of 2004 Germans but here are some later releases from the two most garlanded young producers of that unfashionable but truly exciting region the Rheinhessen. German-based purple pager Steve Dutton alerted us to the superb quality of a couple of Wittmann’s drier 2004s back in July in your turn and so I am particularly thrilled that I have finally managed to taste the range. Most of these are great white wines by any lights – as are Keller’s later releases described below. I have made Wittmann's Silvaner my wine of the week...