If asked, I would have guessed that nowhere other than Austria made really convincing Grüner Veltliner. Most of the non-Austrian GVs to have come my way have been made from very young vines and have not had particularly strong varietal character. But last week I took part in a very illuminating blind tasting of 29 Grüners from around the world – only about a third of them from Austria. Others came from over the northern border of the Weinviertel (Grüner country par excellence), the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary, Germany, France, Australia, New Zealand, Argentina, and from three different states in...