Hermitage La Chapelle 1964–2015

La Chapelle 1972-78

Julia and Jancis were among the dozen lucky tasters at this impeccably organised roller-coaster tasting in Stevenage, just north of London, courtesy of two very generous participants and co-operative importer/retailer The Wine Society.

The ups and downs of this world-famous wine were not only to do with vintage variation and the condition of the individual bottles but clearly related to changes in winemaker and then ownership, as Jancis’s historical account of Paul Jaboulet Aïné's Hermitage La Chapelle published in the FT tomorrow underlines.

The idea of the tasting germinated in the mind of one of those two generous donors, wine...