The rival, royal warrant-holding wine merchants Berry Bros & Rudd and Justerini & Brooks face each other across London’s St James’s Street. For generations they specialised in the most traditional of French wines plus port and sherry but now, as reported in detail by Walter in his long introduction to Glorious Piemonte – an audit, they are both, at last, taking Italy seriously.
The wines below represent their current selections from Italian regions other than Piemonte, including some very nice wines indeed.
TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
FRANZ GOJER
Franz Gojer Kerner 2011 Alto Adige
Very pale yellow with a green tinge. Catchy, lifted and very ripe white fruit and undeniably Germanic in style. Cool-ferment fruit palate with high-tuned acidity. Fresh and uncomplicated. (WS)
13.5%
Drink
2012
–
2014
£18.50 Berry Bros & Rudd
15.5
Franz Gojer, Vigna Rondell 2011 Alto Adige, Santa Maddalena
Pale violet ruby. A little bit of horse saddle on the nose, but otherwise quite serious for Schiava. Lots of flavour and sweet dark fruit combined with a light palate weight. Very good length. Appetising too. Impressive result for this modest grape variety. (WS)
13%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£17.24 Berry Bros & Rudd
15.5
FRIULI
LIS NERIS
Lis Neris Pinot Grigio 2011 IGT Venezia Giulia
Pale straw. Overtly sweet perfumed nose, but at least it actually smells of something! Clean and viscous due to the alcohol, and yeasty impact on sweet fruit finish. Mid length and bitter almond finish. (WS)
14%
Drink
2012
–
2014
£108 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
15.5
Lis Neris, Gris Pinot Grigio 2010 IGT Venezia Giulia
From a single vineyard with 28-year-old vines, and vinified in oak. Pale, brilliant lemony yellow. The fruit just manages to come through the oak. Very tactile palate with sweet fruit and a little bit subdued at the moment. Could do with another six months in bottle perhaps. (WS)
14%
Drink
2012
–
2015
£180 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
16
VENETO
BELE CASEL
Bele Casel, Extra Dry NV Colli Asolani Prosecco
Pale straw. Fresh and attractively perfumed on the nose. Strikes a near perfect balance. A lovely, fresh style, and exactly what straight Prosecco should be about. 17 g/l RS. (WS)
Drink
2012
–
2013
£12.95 Berry Bros & Rudd
17
Bele Casel, Brut 2011 Colli Asolani Prosecco
Very pale straw and with a slow bead. Profound and concentrated. Assertive, fine CO2, almost full-blown sparkling, but ends gentle and perfumed. (WS)
Drink
2012
–
2014
£96 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
17
Bele Casel, Col Fondo 2010 Colli Asolani Prosecco
Secondary fermentation in bottle and not disgorged, hence with a fine sediment of lees. Intense pale straw. Serious, deep yeasty nose with sweet notes. Very fine but lasting bubbles. Very dry and with lively acidity the finish. Well made and food compatible. Frizzante rather than spumante. (WS)
Drink
2012
–
2014
£124 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
17
NOVAIA
Novaia, I Cantoni Superiore Classico 2008 Valpolicella
After the harvest the grapes were dried for 30 days. Herbal and crushed, sweet red fruit. Lively, crunchy and with real bite. Aromatic passito notes, but nothing over the top. (WS)
14%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£288 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
16.5
VIVANI
Viviani, Classico 2008 Valpolicella
Pale red. Fresh, light nose and just a little bit green. Slightly too pale. (JR)
12.5%
Drink
2011
–
2012
£114.97 per case of 12 Justerini & Brooks
14.5
TOSCANA
CALAROSSA
Caiarossa 2008 IGT Toscana
29% Cabernet Franc, 16% Merlot, 16% Petit Verdot, 14% Syrah, 14% Alicante, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Sangiovese. Grape blend almost sounds like a recipe for, well, recipe winemaking. Very deep, dense ruby. Pretty, red sweet fruit and oak. Very appetising acidity, and perfectly built. Everybody's darling, no doubt. (WS)
14.5%
Drink
2012
–
2020
£276 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
17
Caiarossa, Pergolaia 2007 IGT Toscana
91% Sangiovese, 6% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Mid ruby starting to mature. Subtle sweet fruit nose with the merest hint of oak. Muscular, grainy tannin. A richer style of Sangiovese due to the blend, no doubt, and with a long and layered finish. (WS)
13.5%
Drink
2012
–
2018
£108 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
16.5 +
DUEMANI
Duemani, Altrovino Merlot/Cabernet Franc 2010 IGT Toscana
50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet Franc. Cement fermented and aged in oak. Difficult to see real geographical personality. A bit sweet and confected. Dry finish. Sudden finish. (JR)
14%
Drink
2013
–
2016
£100 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
15
Duemani, Cifra 2010 IGT Toscana
100% Cabernet Franc. Debut vintage. Planted 2001. Demeter. Bright crimson. A little sweet and simple. I find it difficult to see the purity of Cabernet Franc in this wine though of course it is well balanced. A little crude and confected, I feel. (JR)
14%
Drink
2012
–
2016
£75 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
15.5
Duemani 2009 IGT Toscana
Selected Cabernet Franc, oak fermented as well as aged. Dark crimson. Modern winemaker style. A bit thick and sweet. Hard work. Where is the relaxed aromatic side of Cabernet Franc? Well intentioned, I’m sure, but… (JR)
14.5%
Drink
2013
–
2017
£315 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
15.5
Duemani, Suisassi Syrah 2009 IGT Toscana
Oaked Syrah. In fact more oak than Syrah alas. Very sweet. And polished. But is does seem so much more winemaking than vine growing! Harsh tarted-up finish. (JR)
Drink
2014
–
2018
£315 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
15.5
IL PALAZZINO...