Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Julia's Portuguese marathon – Algarve

Monday 29 October 2012
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This is the second (the first was Lisboa) in a series of articles that are the fruit of many tastings undertaken in Portugal and occasionally in London between October 2011 and April 2012 to choose my top 50 Portuguese wines. See this guide for links to all the articles in the series.

The map shows where the Algarve is, in the far south of Portugal, and known more for its golf courses and holidays than for wine. Tasting notes are listed in alphabetical order by producer (sur)name.

Red
Sweet fruit with coffee overlay. Quite dry and savoury, fine tannins but a bit hollow in the middle. Quite chewy. Then that coffee flavour back on the finish. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2011 – 2013
Red
Winemaker Rui Virginia. Most of their wines contain Syrah. One year in French and US oak. Deep cherry crimson. Ripe damson aroma and a bit jammy but the oak overrides this with spicy sweetness and more savoury mocha. Very ripe, pretty oaky, modern, unexpectedly just fresh at the end. (JH)
Drink: 2011 – 2014
Red
From Lagos region. Calcareous clay. 'Light' barrel ageing in French oak. Plenty of bright cherry fruit on the nose with a slight baked/rubber note I have been noticing on the Algarve wines tasted today. Dense, chewy and moreish on the palate. Juicy finish. Good casual supper wine. (JH)
Alcohol: 14.2%
Drink: 2011 – 2014
Red
Stemmy herbal nose, quite fresh. Bright and lively and easy. No great depth but probably want you want on holiday. Just enough tannin to give it some structure. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2011 – 2013
Red
Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, Aragonez in roughly equal parts. Chocolate and mocha on the nose. Same on the palate but juicier than I expected. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2011 – 2013
White
Creamy apple notes and a touch more tropical but also a nice savoury, mineral note from the oak and a slight grip. Some oak for six months and lots of lees work, though fermented in steel. Fresh, nicely made but a little bit lean in the middle. A bit watery on the finish though it is aromatic to the end. Tastes more like Verdelho from Oz. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2011 – 2012
Red
Much more fragrant than the 2009, strawberries and cream and then full of fruit on the palate. Lively and fresh but a bit warm on the finish. (JH)
Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2011 – 2014
Red
Elderberry colour. Quite smoky on the nose, hint of oak char. Lots of oak spice and then very savoury on the palate. Dense fruit and rounded tannins. Very smooth and just a catch of heat on the finish. (JH)
Alcohol: 14.6%
Drink: 2011 – 2014
Red
More gentle than the 2008 on the nose and less herbaceous, a little bit of undergrowth, then that cedary note on the palate. Again a bit lacking in flesh in the middle. Delicate. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2011 – 2015
Red
Odelouca River Valley near Portimão. Belongs to French-born doctor from a Piemonte family, Patrick Agositini. A mix of meaty and herbaceous on the nose, dark fruit and a little peppery. And a bit cedary – that Cabernet shows but Trincadeira can also be herbaceous. Suave and gentle on the palate. Chocolatey oak but not over the top. Quite light in the middle. Restrained. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2011 – 2015
Rosé
Smells meaty/bretty. Very tart on the palate and a bit green. (JH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 0
Red
Nice packaging. Sweet berry fruit, strawberry notes and touch of fruit cake. Then more savoury on the palate, quite an odd contrast. Juicy then finishes dry. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2011 – 2014
Red
Very meaty on the nose. Tough and dry on the palate. Seems like Brett. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 0
Red
Clay-limestone soils. pH 3.63. 2009 was their second year of conversion to organic viticulture. 12 months in new French and US oak. Mid ruby. Sweet Victoria plum aroma that I associate with Bastardo, small red berries. Spicy too. Fresh, lively and juicy with upright. tense and fine-grained tannins. Oak is not intrusive though it adds its own sweetness. Really appetising and good length. Well done for using Bastardo to get freshness in the Algarve. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2012 – 2016
Red
From the Lagos area. A relatively new producer – Guillaume and Maria Leroux. Aged in 'oak casks and vats' for eight months. Mid ruby. Distinctive nose – spicy red fruit and something more savoury from the oak. Rich, juicy and lots of spice, leading to a sweet finish. Firm, dense but smooth tannins. A little hard on the finish, and some heat from the alcohol but lots of flavour. (JH)
Alcohol: 14.6%
Drink: 2011 – 2014
Red

Intense dark fruit on the nose with a nice savoury edge. Savoury oak spice on the palate. Dark but fluid and fine-grained savoury tannins. Juicy finish. Shows good restraint and promise. (JH)

Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2011 – 2015
Red
Winemaker Paulo Fonseca. Eight months in oak. Savoury dark fruit with plenty of spice. Though there's a light floral note too and red fruit emerges later. Chewy, spicy and just fresh. Modern ,oaky. No real sense of place. (JH)
Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2012 – 2015
Red
Touriga Nacional's floral notes and peppery. Fruit is overwhelmed on the palate by the oak and overall effect is a little bit bitter. Rounded tannins and just fresh enough. (JH)
Alcohol: 14.5%
Drink: 2011 – 2013
Red
Winemaker Paulo Fonseca. Eight months in oak. Deep crimson. Dark fruit, hints of smoke and spice. Savoury char overlay. Very oaky on the palate with too much chocolatey sweetness on the finish. Full bodied and firm. Overoaked. (JH)
Alcohol: 14.4%
Drink: 2011 – 2013
Red
German owner. Oenologist Paulo Loreano. Clay-limestone soils. RS 3.1 g/l, pH 3.62. 12 months in French oak. Mid ruby. Slightly baked note and red fruit, though not especially aromatic. More chocolate texture and flavour on the palate. Smooth, fresh and finishes juicy. (JH)
Alcohol: 14%
Drink: 2011 – 2013
Red
Malo and then 13 months in French oak. TA 6.3 g/l, pH 3.52. Deep cherry colour. Lots of aroma – classic Touriga Nacional perfumed dark fruit but also something meaty and smoky. Dry and fresh but I am a bit worried about that meatiness in such a young wine. Slightly hard finish. (JH)
Alcohol: 13%
Drink: 2011 – 2014

 

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