See the guide to Julia's Portuguese marathon for further articles in the series – those already published and those set for publication this week.
These 331 tasting notes were taken over an extended period of time while I was selecting my top 50 Portuguese wines, starting back in October 2011, when I visited several producers in the Douro Superior, up towards the Spanish border (having visited the heart of the Douro on several other occasions): Quinta da Ervamoira, Quinta do Vale do Meão, Quinta do Couquinho and Quinta da Leda (owned by Sogrape). Many of the wines were gathered together at a regional tasting not long after that, and the rest were tasted on many and various occasions in Portugal and in London.
Apart from a small group of Dalva ports at the every end, these were all unfortified wines as my remit for the top 50 excluded fortified wines from the Douro and Madeira. (The reason is entirely pragmatic and a little dull: ViniPortugal, who run the top 50 programme, do not represent port or madeira, which have their own promotional bodies.) But I was delighted to take a break from rich, powerful reds and complex whites to taste these older Dalva tawnies and especially the miraculously fresh sweet old white ports – purely for pleasure.
I haven't actually counted, but I wouldn't be in the least bit surprised to find that there are more articles on Douro table wines on this site than there are on the wines of any other region of Portugal, even though these wines were neglected for many years once port became popular and well established in the 18th century. Most sources would say that the renaissance of Douro table wines began with Barca Velha in the Douro Superior in the 1950s (see the Oxford Companion entry on the Douro) but it is really in the last 30 or so years that they have come more widely into their own, with vineyards more obviously cultivated for this specific purpose and winemaking facilities brought up to date and able to produce fine wines in the extremely harsh conditions of the Douro Valley.
Today the quality of table wines in the Douro is exceptional, although there is still in my opinion a (diminishing) tendency to overoak these deeply coloured and rich-fruited nectars. And there is a much wider range of styles than there was even ten years ago, with many more examples revealing finesse, freshness and a specific origin rather than a blunderbuss of ripe, sometimes port-like fruit. Many of my favourite red wines have a sort of dark savoury character and very fine, tightly packed tannins, particularly in youth, that I am often tempted to describe as coal-like, though I fear that may not sound as positive as it is intended. Whites, too, especially those made from indigenous varieties, old vines, often field blends, show a wonderful density and complexity that marry well with oak and age remarkably well where freshness has been coaxed and treasured.
As with each region of Portugal that was part of this marathon, there is so much more to say, a book to be written, but, as Jancis will tell you, we have quite enough of those in the pipeline at the moment. If you do want to read more widely on the Douro, I recommend Richard Mayson's recently revised work Port and the Douro, although he does focus more on port than on the table wines.
The notes below are presented in alphabetical order by producer (sur)name, and then whites before reds for each one. Only one producer chose to show me a rosé. Where I tasted the same wine more than once (ie on different occasions in different locations), I have kept both notes in the hope that they will give a fuller picture rather than confuse. NB if you click on the wine name, you can see the date tasted in the more detailed search results. GV = good value; VGV = very good value.
ÁGUIA MOURA
Águia Moura, Em Vinhas Velhas Reserva 2008 Douro
Very distinctive nose: floral and and red fruit so sweet and leans towards strawberry, but not quite. Just starting to show a touch of age in delicate meaty notes. Juicy, fresh and just a touch hard at the very end of the palate – so there's concentration but not as effortless as the Lua Nova old vines just tasted. Bitter-sweet finish. (JH) 14%
ALIANÇA
Aliança, Quinta dos Quatro Ventos 2008 Douro
Bright cherry colour. Fragrant with but not overwhelmed by oak spice. Sweet ripe cherry fruit and some herbs. Touch of chocolate – flavour and texture – on the palate but again the fruit depth balances the oak well. Chewy but not at all tough. Lots of pleasure. (JH) 14%
Aliança, Quinta dos Quatro Ventos 2008 Douro
Aliança, Quinta dos Quatro Ventos Reserva 2007 Douro
Greyish deep crimson. Muted nose. A little dusty. Then sweet – chocolate – on the mid palate. Tannins are rounded and resolved, chocolate textured. Polished but not really eye-catching. Finishes fresh. Very correct. (JH) 15%
ALTA PONTUAÇÃO
Alta Pontuação 2008 Douro
Odd, cardboardy and smells yeasty as if it is still going through malo though it obviously is not. Dry and flat on the palate. Cardboard on the finish too. (JH) 13.5%
ALTANO
Altano 2010 Douro
Altano 2010 Douro
Very pale. Herbal, verging on boxtree, fresh citrus/grapefruit aroma. Plus a delicate smoky/mineral (?reductive) thiol note. Very crisp and fresh. Dry, lively – would definitely keep you cool on a hot Douro day. Needs to be drunk young. Long mineral finish. Don't know the price but I suspect it is under £10 and GV. Reminds me in some ways current Sauvignon Blancs coming from NZ producers such as St Clair. (JH) 12.2%
Altano 2009 Douro
Both aromatic (mostly fresh red fruit) and mineral at the same time. Lively on the nose with a hint of orange among that red fruit. Tight and fresh and has a fine stony layer through the middle even though there's fruit all around it. Some oak in evidence but mercifully in the background. Lovely tension and freshness. VGV (JH) 14%
Altano 2009 Douro
Altano, Organically Farmed Vineyard 2009 Douro
Deep black cherry colour. Freshness of garrigue over small dark-berried fruit. Hint of elderberry. Smooth, tasty and quite approachable even now. Sweet mocha on the mid palate. Moderate density and more savoury on the finish. Smooth finish. (JH) 14.2%
Altano, Quinta do Ataíde Reserva 2008 Douro
ALVES DE SOUSA
Alves de Sousa, Pessoal Reserva 2003 Vinho Regional Duriense
Gouveio, Malvasis Fina, Viosinho, etc. 24 hours on skins. Six months in French oak. Deep gold. Rich and spicy, apricots. Rich, savoury, oxidative style balanced by high acidity. Long. (JH)
13%Alves de Sousa, Quinta das Caldas 2008 Douro
Deep purple/crimson. Warm, spicy plum fruit, a touch smoky. Sour-cherry freshness. Attractively fresh acidity. Lightly oaked, plenty of fruit spice. (JH) 14.5%
Alves de Sousa, Pessoal Reserva 2003 Douro
A blend of 20 different varieties. 18 months new oak.
Sweet, dark smoky plums, more sour cherry on the palate. Ripe but pretty grippy. Finishes warm and more velvety but a bit of heat at the very end. (JH)
ANETO
Aneto, Reserva 2010 Douro
Limey citrus with a touch of lanolin. Fresh, very zesty, tangy but not very Douro, though there's a nice stony finish. (JH) 13.5%
Aneto, Grande Reserva 2008 Douro
Sweet and spicy on the nose. Rich fruit cake aromas but not overly raisined. Firm, dense and dry but still fluid on the palate. Savoury and firm on the palate. Confident and complete. Love those savoury, fresh mouth-coating tannins. (JH) 13.5%
QUINTA DAS APEGADAS
Quinta das Apegadas, Apegadas Quinta Velha Grande Reserva 2008 Douro
Spiced dark fruit, ripe but not baked. Hint of violets. Rich, smooth and dense but not heavy. Spicy fresh finish. Harmonious and zesty on the finish. Moreish. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta das Apegadas, Apegadas Quinta Velha 2008 Douro
CAVES ARCOS DO REI
Caves Arcos do Rei, Vasco de Gama Reserva 2008 Douro
Caves Arcos do Rei, Terras de Murça 2008 Douro
Blackish crimson. Very ripe, verging on overripe dark fruit. Meaty on the palate and lacks freshness. (JH) 13.5%
ADEGA AROMÁTICA
Adega Aromática, Dois Lagares 2010 Douro
Smoky, spicy oak dominates the nose at the moment. But there's some pure dark/savoury fruit on the mid palate. Tannins are smooth but overall a little bit lean and hard on the finish. (JH) 13.5%
ATALAYA
Atalaya 2008 Douro
Very dark cherry colour. Black core. Fruit is intensely dark and sweet and has a note of something like eucalyptus. Roasted and toasty too. Generously flavoured. Very oaky and roasted on the palate, hiding the fruit. Just about fresh even though the pH is relatively low (3.47). RS 4.3 g/l. A bit aggressive on the finish though it started well. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DOS AVIGADOS
Quinta dos Avidagos, Quinta do Além Tanha Grande Reserva 2007 Douro
Ripe fruit but rather spirity on the nose. A bit hard even with RS 4 g/l. Real headache material. (JH) 15.5%
Quinta dos Avidagos, Avidagos 2009 Douro
Black core. Gentle nose. Hint of burnt rubber on the palate but too slight to be objectionable. Balanced, fresh dark fruit and juicy, relatively soft finish. (JH) 13%
QUINTA DAS BAJANCAS
Quinta das Bajancas, Bajancas 2008 Douro
Rich and spicy on the nose. Lighter and more juicy on the palate. Not a lot of flesh but plenty of freshness and not bad length. Chocolate-smooth tannins on the finish. (JH) 14%
BARÃO DE VILAR
Barão de Vilar, Grande Reserva 2008 Douro
Inky cassis colour. Fragrant but quite reticent on the nose. Gentle and inviting fresh dark fruit. Dry and powder-fine on the palate but lots of powder! Cool and extremely mineral. Withheld at the moment. Lean and dry and needs time to fill out but has very very fine bones. Need to come back to this one. Opens up to a little more smoky and coffee. Dark and a little unforgiving at the moment. Older vines mean that the Touriga is less strident. (JH) 14%
Barão de Vilar, ZOM 2008 Douro
BRITES AGUIAR
Brites Aguiar, Bafarela Grande Reserva 2009 Douro
A little bit reduced on the nose (touch of burnt rubber). Same on the palate. There's some fine dark fruit underneath so maybe just needs aeration? Quite savoury too and with juicy freshness. After some sloshing around, the fruit shows more clearly. Savoury, verging on bitter on the finish. But perhaps it just needs more air and time. (JH) 14.5%
Brites Aguiar, VT 2008 Douro
Dark plums and a hint of smoke. Aggressive coffee flavour on the palate. A bit overworked so the finish is bitter, not helped by the alcohol. Lacks freshness. (JH) 15.5%
QUINTA DAS BRÔLHAS
Quinta das Brôlhas, Reserva 2008 Douro
Light toasty/spicy oak notes at first, then dark, slightly jammy, damson fruit emerging. Fine grained and powdery but pretty dry, austere tannin structure. Needs time. Even with the dryness of the tannins, it has a fluidity across the palate that lifts it and promises more. (JH) 14.3%
Quinta das Brôlhas, Grande Escolha 2007 Douro
Rich, ripe and perfumed. Riipe and damsony on the palate but nice freshness (pH 3.42) too. Very Douro without being OTT. Oenologist is Virgílio Loureiro. Maybe just a little watery on the finish. Baixo Corgo. (JH) 13.8%
BURMESTER
Burmester, Casa Burmester Touriga Nacional 2009 Douro
CALHEIROS CRUZ
Calheiros Cruz, Grande Reserva 2008 Douro
Deep crimson. Fragrant with bergamot and a hint of smoky lapsang and fresh blackberries. Then more savoury on the palate. Very fluid tannins, fresh, moderate but elegant length. Refined and harmonious. Alcohol doesn't show, nor does the new French oak (too much). (JH) 15.5%
QUINTA DA CANAMEIRA
Quinta da Canameira, Reserva 2008 Douro
QUINTA DA CASA AMARELA
Quinta da Casa Amarela, Grande Reserva 2009 Douro
Blueberry-sweet aroma. Them more savoury and tarry on the palate. Dense but fresh. Well rounded. Big but not brash. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta da Casa Amarela, Reserva 2008 Douro
Black cherry colour. Soft, generous but still fresh and lively. Aromatic red fruit. Quite light/elegant in the middle. (JH) 14%
CASA DE CAMBRES
Casa de Cambres, Reserva 2011 Douro
Very pale. Fresh, grassy citrus aroma. Much more pear flavour on the palate and richer than I expected with an attractivley fine-grained texture, again like pears. Clean and refreshing and lively. No real oak flavour but there's some creamy depth that balances well with the freshness. Clean and modern but far from soulless thanks to these Portuguese varieties. (JH) 13%
Casa de Cambres, Reserva 2009 Douro
Black cherry colour. Lively dark fruit, slightly peppery. Rich, sweet fruit at just the right level of ripeness to give roundness but nothing porty. Oak is present but restrained and there's a lovely mouthwatering finish. Fine tannins in proportion to the fruit still offer some resistance but are fine grained. (JH) 13.5%
CASA FERREIRINHA
Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape), Planalto Reserva 2010 Douro
Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape), Planalto Reserva 2010 Douro
Delicate, fresh lemon nose. Very dry and very crisp. Not a huge amount of fruit flavour on the palate, mostly citrus. Refreshing and a nice stony aftertaste. (JH) 12.5%
Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape), Vinha Grande 2010 Douro
Gently creamy, leesy nose. Citrus and pear fruit. Good creamy texture but with bright citrus fruit through the middle. Fresh natural acid and good length. Very crisp clean finish with oak adding depth. (JH) 13%
Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape), Esteva 2010 Douro
Deep purple crimson. Lovely rich dark fruit aroma – plum and black cherry and smooth tannins. Frist vintage was 1984 and it's still showing welll. Fresh and juicy but generous for an entry level wine. Moderate length. Easy but not simple. Just a slight chew on the finish so would be good with food. (JH) 13%
Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape), Vinha Grande 2009 Douro
Elderberry juice colour. Touch of sweet oak spice but mostly it is the dark fruit that shows. Pure damson and just a hint of blueberry sweetness. Fine grained, dry and fresh. Rounded now but well built. Nice chew on the finish but freshness keeps the elegance. Very moreish and mineral at the end. (JH) 13.5%
Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape), Quinta da Leda 2009 Douro
Black inky core. Intense sweet dark fruit but also has the Touriga Nacional fragrance in restrained measure. Now has quite a bit of oak spice but not OTT. Touch of coconut. Fresh and sweet on the mid palate but finishes dry. Dense and attractively chewy. Modern but still Douro with that slight minerality on the finish. Density and freshness well married. (JH) 14.5%
Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape), Quinta da Leda 2008 Douro
Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape), Antónia Adelaide Ferreira 2008 Douro
Inky black cherry colour. Intense sweet dark fruit with a touch of spice but also a slight dusty/mineral overlay and Touriga Nacional fragrance. Lovely fine fresh tannins and acidity. 2008 good tannins and acidity combo. Cold year with long maturation. pH 3.5. Restrained but rich and full bodied with no excess weight. Even though there is a firm grip, it slides across the palate and finishes lovely and dry. Fab tannins. Concentrated without over-sweetness. (JH) 14%
Casa Ferreirinha (Sogrape), Especial Reserva 2003 Douro
Deep garnet. Sweet and almost overripe fruit-cake fruit. But fresher in the mouth. Fine-grained and balanced but that fruit is overripe on the nose. Some southern Rhône character. Reflects the vintage. Some beginning notes of undergrowth and fresh finish. Very long. (JH) 14.5%
QUINTA DA CASSA
Quinta da Cassa, Reserva 2008 Douro
Sweetness of both fruit and oak on the nose. American oak in evidence – touch of mocha sweetness. But flat on the palate. Fine, lightish (for Douro) tannins but a bit drying on the finish. Like the Fafide, lacks flesh in the middle. (JH) 14%
CASTELLO d'ALBA
Castello d'Alba, Unoaked Touriga Nacional 2010 Douro
Deep inky ruby. Spicy, fragrant and warm smelling. Fresh with dark cherry fruit and really nice to have an unoaked Touriga. Slight bitterness on the finish. GV (JH) 13%
Castello d'Alba, Vinhas Velhas Grande Reserva 2009 Douro
Very dark with black cherry rim. Sweet fruit-cake fruit and spice. Ripe but not OTT. Oaky and firm on the palate but fresh too. Lively but a slight clash of acidity and extracted tannins on the finish makes it a tad hard and bitter at the end. Added acidity? RS 3.2 g/l. (JH) 14%
CAVES VELHAS
Enoport, Caves Velhas Topázio 2009 Douro
Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca.
Bright dark crimson. Spicy red-cherry fruit and a light herbal note. Lively, fresh and moreish, lighter than I expected from the blend but balanced with good length. GV if it really is less than €4. Well packaged too. (JH)
Enoport, Caves Velhas Alma Grande Touriga Nacional Reserva 2008 Douro
An Enoport wine. Fermented in lagares, nine months in French oak.
Rich and dark with a balsam note. Dark on the palate too, fine grained, generous fruit balanced by the rounded tannins and a juicy finish. (JH)
CHRYSEIA
Chryseia 2009 Douro
Deep black cherry colour. Bags of sweet dark fruit and a lightly minty note, plus a touch of orange and raisin and dark chocolate. Fragrant and surprisingly gentle. Smooth and relatively soft tannins even now. Mix of sweet oak spice and sour cherry on the finish. Long and surprisingly gentle and some oak spice on the finish. (JH) 14%
Chryseia 2009 Douro
Deeply coloured, fragrant blackberry freshness, almost a hint of red fruit. Creamy, spiced but fresh on the palate. Less savoury and dark than the Post Scriptum. More elegant and silky than the PS. (JH) 14.4%
Chryseia 2006 Douro
Deep crimson. Smells different from the 2004 and the 2009. Something unusual, a bit like tamarind at first or meat extract, though with aeration there's more spice and dark frut and vaguely floral. That same flavour on the palate. I find it more confusing than complex. (JH) 14%
Chryseia 2004 Douro
Very interesting to compare the 2004 with the 2009. Fruit is still very sweet and dominant on the nose and it has that same slightly minty note of the 2009 and some slight strange (wood-derived) flavour rather like tamarind. Difficult to describe on the palate, there's a strong fruit sweetness but also the merest hint of something more meaty. Surprisingly little develoment after five years in bottle though the tannins are now fully resolved. Just fresh enough. I think there's just too much wood flavour on all three vintages tasted. (JH) 14%
Chryseia, Post Scriptum 2009 Douro
Deeply coloured with black cherry rim. Very ripe but in a savoury baked and almost raisiny style. Warm wheat. Savoury tar/coal notes and some suggestion that Touriga's perfume is lurking underneath. Dark plums and cherries in the mouth but again that savoury overlay. Powerful but not aggressive or heavy. Dense but not drying. Firm and smooth and long. Alcohol is reasonable and well integrated. Long and complete. Dark chocolate on the finish. Just fresh enough. (JH) 14.1%
Chryseia, Post Scriptum 2008 Douro
QUINTA DE CIDRÔ
Quinta de Cidrô Alvarinho 2010 Douro
Pale gold – surprisingly dark. Intense and spicy even though there's no oak. Orange and apricot, touch of smoke (slightly reductive?) and minerality. Dry, grapefruit and mineral on the palate – ie much more linear than the nose. Taut, fresh, powerful. (JH) 14.5%
CONCEITO
Conceito 2009 Douro
Very cedary nose and very oaky on the palate. Lots of spice. Creamy lees texture. Under all that oak there's fresh and pure fruit but it is hidden at the moment at least. (JH) 13.5%
Conceito 2009 Douro
Conceito Bastardo 2009 Vinho Regional Duriense
For the Douro, looks more like a rosé, though it is deeper red than that. I love the nose: wild strawberries, herbs and Victoria plums. Really spicy on the palate and just so wild and fearless. Fresh acidity and tannin and long spicy finish. Great with the food. (JH) 13.5%
Conceito Bastardo 2009 Vinho Regional Duriense
Very light crimson, more like a rosé. Sweet strawberry fruit and a touch of spice, then quite sweet/sour on the palate, Would be great with really fatty food. Spicy and long for such a medium-bodied wine. Very distinctive. Very Trousseau, for this it is. (NB subsequent tastings more disappointing.) (JH) 13%
COROA D'OURO
Coroa d'Ouro 2008 Douro
Bright greyish crimson. Baked, slightly roasted aroma but relatively closed. Light but juicy on the palate. Fresh but unexceptional. No oak. Easy and avoids unnecessary sweetness. (JH) 13%
QUINTA DE COTTAS
Quinta de Cottas, Cottas Reserva 2010 Douro
Quinta de Cottas, Cottas Reserva 2009 Douro
Sweetish blueberry aroma. Then a bit tough on the palate, maybe that vatting was just too long. Thick tannins. Just about fresh. A bit hard at the end though there's sweet fruit in the middle. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DO CÔTTO
Quinta do Côtto, Grande Escolha 2009 Douro
Lovely fragrant nose, gentle red fruit, light spice, and that lovely hint of bergamot again. Lively and very fresh. Fine and dry and elegant. Has slightly less of the roasted edge of the 2005. Juicy and bright but not quite as complex as the 2005, and tannins are a little softer and sweeter. (JH) 13.5%
Quinta do Côtto, Grande Escolha 2007 Douro
Black core, prunes and very ripe damsons on the nose. Fruit and acidity don't seem fully integrated so there's a slight tartness on the finish. But it is taut and zesty and the tannins are rounded though firm. And there's a suppleness on the very end. (JH) 14%
Quinta do Côtto 2009 Douro
Quinta do Côtto 2009 Douro
Slightly unusual oaky spice aroma, hint of coffee and then pretty savoury. Rather drying on the palate, fruit not easy to find. Very dry finish. (JH) 13%
QUINTA DO COUQUINHO
Quinta do Couquinho, Encostas do Gavião 2009 Douro
Quinta do Couquinho, Grande Reserva 2009 Douro
Fresh, dark and spicy with a lighter fruit overlay. Juicy and very fresh and lively. Aim is to show the terroir without new oak. Warm on the nose and quite alcoholic – warm on the finish as suits the region. 'Heat is part of the terroir.' GV (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Couquinho, Grande Reserva 2007 Douro
Quinta do Couquinho 2009 Douro
Fine Touriga perfume. Dark blackberry fruit, ripe but not too sweet and a touch mineral on the finish. Generous but not fat. Oak is surprisingly in the background on the nose. More evident on the palate but really has that rounded sweetness the French call 'sucrosité'. Tannins are more dense and nicely savoury but very rounded. Still has some spice but perhaps more oak spice this time. Warm but not massive. Just fresh enough. (JH) 14.5%
QUINTA DO CRASTO
Quinta do Crasto, Crasto 2011 Douro
Smoky and a touch reductive. Still has nice stony pear aromas. Dry, taut and fresh but with a creamy richness balancing the palate. Lovely pure fruit without any oak interference. Even a touch floral (acacia?) on the mid palate. I love its unoakedness. (JH)
Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional 2009 Douro
Very dark black cherry. Fragrant with all those classic Touriga Nacional aromas of bergamot and orange and violets, with a touch of vanilla and oak spice. Lovely supple texture already, with freshness on the finish. Lively and rich with strong chocolate/oak aftertaste. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Crasto, Crasto Tinta Roriz 2009 Douro
Quinta do Crasto, Crasto Superior 2009 Douro
Deep black cherry colour. More red fruit than black on the nose and a light Douro dustiness. Fresh acidity but very sweet fruit flvaours on the palate. Dry, dense but smooth tannins, a little bit of heat on the finish. Oak is present but not overwhelming so that the finish is fresh and juicy. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Crasto, Vinha Maria Teresa 2009 Douro
Dark greyish black cherry colour. Distinctive aroma of small wild berries, some red fruit too, though there's plenty of oak sweetness again and a touch of vanilla. Plums and damsons on the palate. Nice mineral note but not enough savoury character to balance all the sweetness of fruit and oak. Fine-grained and supple but again that finish is so sweet and you do just feel the alcohol on the finish. American oak seems to make too much of a mark. Chocolate-like aftertaste. (JH) 15%
Quinta do Crasto, Vinhas Velhas Reserva 2009 Douro
Dark ruby. Restrained and dusty on the nose, dark fruit. Juicy and super-smooth but finishes a little too sweet-tasting for my palate, with the oak the strongest aftertaste. Although it is well structured, there's lots of easy pleasure and the lightweight concentration of old vines. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Crasto, Vinhas Velhas Reserva 2009 Douro
DALVA
Dalva, Reserva 2010 Douro
Lightly smoky/mineral lemon aroma. Slight grip and a little bit flat on the mid palate, though it finishes fresher and more lively with a creamy citrus aftertaste. (JH) 12.5%
Dalva, Grande Reserva 2009 Douro
Dark elderberry colour. Even has that sweet/sour elderberry aroma. Pure dark fruit then some violet flavour on the palate. Smooth, dense, well-managed tannins. Much more savoury on the finish but fluid too. Harmonious whole with a promising future. Finish is more structure than flavour but it is fine-tuned to the whole. (JH) 14%
DÃO SUL
Dão Sul, Palestra 2008 Douro
DELAFORCE
Delaforce Touriga Nacional 2009 Douro
D F J VINHOS
DFJ Vinhos, Escada 2007 Douro
Mid crimson. Gentle, spicy, sweet dark fruit. Slight chew still on the tannins but rounded out and smooth. Attractive freshness to balance the warmth on the palate. Just ready for drinking now but still has a future. (JH) 13%
DFJ Vinhos, Escada 2007 Douro
Black cherry colour. Unusual nose: dark fruit, but also herbal and a little balsamic. Then relatively light on the palate and tannins are smooth. Slightly drying overall. (JH) 13%
DOURO FAMILY ESTATES
Douro Family Estates, DFE Signature 2009 Douro
Douro Family Estates, DFE Premium 2007 Douro
Dark, greyish crimson. Sweet wild strawberries on the nose giving way to a darker ripeness with a touch of tar and roasted potato skins. Quite savoury on the palate. Then surprisingly soft. Just fresh. Unexceptional. (JH) 14.5%
DOURO PRIME
Douro Prime, Inquieto Touriga Nacional 2008 Douro
Very dark with black core. Intense Touriga Nacional aromas – bergamot, violets and lots of toasty oak too. Then surprisingly dry and fine on the palate, real elegance after such intense aromas. Finishes sweet but dry. A bit flashy but lots of flavour. (JH) 14.5%
Douro Prime, Inquieto Reserva 2008 Douro
Very dark. Attractive dark plum aromas, no raisining but some sweet spice. More sweet oak spice on the palate, velvety tannins and just fresh. (I thought it might be fresher with the Sousão component.) Sweet and gentle though there's plenty of tannic structure, very rounded. I preferred their Touriga Nacional. (JH) 14.5%
DUORUM
Duorum, Tons de Duorum 2010 Douro
Strongly aromatic. Herbal and grassy and intensely refreshing. Vibrant but also surprisingly rich. Modern but characterful. Quite Albariño-like and orangey on the palate. Tingly aftertaste. GV (JH) 13%
Duorum, Tons de Duorum 2010 Douro
Black cherry colour. Lively, raspberry and blackberry fruit. Appealingly fruity and also has the Touriga perfume. Just a hint of cough linctus. Fresh, light and fine tannins. Fresh and straightforward but really nicely constructed for entry-level Douro. (JH) 13.5%
Duorum, Tons de Duorum 2009 Douro
Black cherry colour. Sweetness of oak and the floral edge of Touriga Nacional give the first fragrant impressions. Definite dusty mineral note too and black fruit but not cassis. Acidity quite marked – sticks out a bit against the sweetness of the fruit. Richly fruity and moreish. Immediate pleasure, rounded but present tannins and respectable length. GV (JH) 13%
Duorum 2009 Douro
Duorum 2009 Douro
Inky dark core. Roasted but fresh dark fruit, not at all raisined. Juicy and fresh and lively. Gentle (for the Douro) tannins. Easy and likeable and already harmonious. Doesn't have great concentration but it has moderate length. (JH) 13.5%
Duorum 2009 Douro
Duorum, Vinhas Velhas Reserva 2009 Douro
Inky core. First bottle corked, 2nd bottle: clean dark fruit on the nose, some vanilla sweetness. Quite dry on the palate and a little bit tough. (JH) 14%
DURHAM AGRELLOS
Durham Agrellos, Marka 2009 Douro
Black cherry colour. Fresh pure damson aroma. Lively, bright and juicy even though there's some firm tannins on the finish. Well balanced and not trying too hard. (JH) 13.5%
Durham Agrellos, Marka Reserva 2008 Douro
Sweet spice and vanilla oak aromas. Same on the palate and slightly lacking flesh. Lean in the middle with dusty tannins. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DA FAFIDE
Quinta de Fafide, Reserva 2008 Douro
Attractive modern wine. Slight medicinal (reductive?) note to the dark fruit. Dry, taut, fresh, a bit lean/austere. Tannins are fine but grip is slightly dry at the end. Acidity (pH 3.55) seems to have hardened the tannins rather than added freshness. (JH) 14%
ADEGA DE FAVAIOS
Adega de Favaios, 10 Años Moscatel 2009 Douro
Deep orangey gold, deep amber. Intense bitter orange and roasted apricots and barley sugar. Tangy, fresh and full of flavour. Lots of spice on the palate. Would be lovely with hard cheese. Or with crème brûlée or egg-based desserts. (JH) 17.3%
QUINTA DA FONTE NOVA
Quinta da Fonte Nova, Chamadouro Reserva 2008 Douro
Deep crimson. Dark fruit, almost cassis and a little cedary. Hint of Bordeaux! Cedary on the palate too, fresh and lively but perhaps just slightly lean and tannins dry on the finish. (JH) 13.5%
QUINTA DA FRONTEIRA
Quinta da Fronteira, Reserva 2009 Douro
Colour of elderberry juice. Smells very sweet and strongly floral. Cherry chocolate. Masses of chocolate on the finish. Dense and quite firm, delicious in a very chocolatey sort of way. Quite fresh but the cherry chocolate wins! (JH) 14.5%
Quinta da Fronteira, Grande Escolha 2009 Douro
18 months in French oak and feels like chewing a barrel. Pure dark cherry fruit with a rather odd aroma of oatmeal at first. Oaky, dense, exaggerated. Still has that chocolate overlay. But really is overwhelmed by the oak. (JH) 15%
QUINTA DA GAIVOSA
Quinta da Gaivosa, Branco da Gaivosa Reserva 2010 Douro
A tad reductive. Oaky, creamy rich and ripe yet the fruit aromas are still so pure – citrus and clementine and less than ripe pineapple and a touch of resin from the Malvasia. Spicy overlay doesn't overpower that fruit concentration. Creamy texture and full body but still fresh even with a lightly oily spice character on the finish. There is a slight hole in the middle that makes me prefer the 2008. (JH) 13.5%
Quinta da Gaivosa, Branco da Gaivosa Reserva 2009 Douro
Alves de Sousa, Pessoal Reserva 2005 Douro
80-year-old field blend of 20 varieties including Touriga Franca, Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional. 12 months in French oak and 12 months in bottle before release.
Youthful bright but deep crimson. Just the most amazing aromas: there's cherry and orange and the merest hint of leather and spice. Lifted without being in the least volatile. Dry but silky smooth tannins. Glides across the palate like a practised dancer. Effortless complexity and elegance and all the while both gentle and fresh with a fine dry finish. (JH)
Alves de Sousa, Abandonado 2009 Douro
Field blend of Tinta Amarela, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, etc. 80-year-old vines grown at the highest point on the estate. 18 months in new French oak. Unnecessarily heavy bottle.
Blackish dark crimson. Wonderfully fragrant and lifted wild fruits and a marked thyme aroma. Dense and savoury on the palate but not heavy, counterbalanced by some oak sweetness. Effortless concentration and even with all that tannin, still glides across the palate. Pretty oaky now but at least the oak adds dark savour rather than sweetness. (JH)
Quinta da Gaivosa, Vinha de Lordelo 2009 Douro
Glowing crimson. Rich on the nose and a little more aromatic and sweeter-smelling than the Gaivosa red – oak sweetness more in evidence in this younger wine. Purity of cherry fruit. Succulent, rich and cashmere soft even though it has that density of old vines to give it shape and freshness and a slight cherry bite on the finish and just very slightly chewy still. Aromatic and very gently floral on the mid palate. Refined and long. What appears to be effortless concentration. (JH) 15.5%
Quinta da Gaivosa 2008 Douro
Deep ruby. Subtle, savoury, both red fruits and dark plum notes but not overly sweet on the nose, lightly aromatic. A touch of pepper and spice. Deliciously fresh and intense and beautifully melded on the palate so that it is hard to pick out individual flavours. Rich, dense and smooth but still has energy and fine structure. Fresh and moreish with a fresh sour-cherry bite on the long minerally finish. (JH) 14.5%
GRAMBEIRA
Grambeira 2010 Douro
Rich and aromatic: citrus, not quite apricot, stony. Taut, pure and very fresh. Bright, techncial and hint of boiled sweets on the finish. (JH) 13%
MANUEL PINTO HESPANHOL
Manuel Pinto Hespanhol, Calcos do Tanha Tinta Barroca 2001 Douro
Manuel Pinto Hespanhol, Calcos do Tanha Touriga Nacional 2001 Douro
Manuel Pinto Hespanhol, Calcos do Tanha Reserva 2000 Douro
Manuel Pinto Hespanhol, Calcos do Tanha Touriga Francesa 1999 Douro
Deep garnet with very little brick. Slightly gamey/meaty and bloody on the nose, lifted, perhaps a touch of brett, but there's still the remains of dark fruit layered underneath. Sweet and juicy on the palate, with a strong bloody, almost metallic (iron in the blood) overlay. I had to reduce my score because the brett just got worse as the wine opened up. (JH) 13%
QUINTA DO INFANTADO
Quinta do Infantado, Roseira 2009 Douro
Quinta do Infantado, Reserva 2009 Douro
Black as the ace of spades. Initially reduced but after sloshing it around: intense small dark berry fruit and some peppery spice. Taut, intense but not excess flesh. Muscular yet not brash. Firm, chewy, excellent concentration and freshness. Needs much more time and lots of air. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DO JUDEU
Quinta do Judeu 2010 Douro
Pale gold. Lightly spiced and slightly oily citrus but with a hint of something resinous/cedary. Odd on the palate, slightly bitter phenolic flavour and texture. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Judeu 2008 Douro
KOPKE
Kopke, Reserva 2010 Douro
Lightly frragrant – lemon and apricot and a creamy edge which follows through on the palate, becoming a little more chalky. Then firm and a little spicy on the palate. A gentle phenolic grip, plenty of citrus freshness and good length. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DAS LAMELAS
Quinta das Lamelas, Grande Reserva 2005 Douro
Dark crimson with smudgy wide rim. Very ripe black damsons and a little tarry. Roasted prunes but more roasted than overripe. Dense and chewy even after six years. A little bit tough and roasted on the finish. Lots of flavour but not much charm. (JH) 13.7%
Quinta das Lamelas, Reserva 2007 Douro
Attractively ripe nose enlivened by wild garrigue notes. Very slight meaty note but mostly red fruit. Wild strawberries on the palate and fresh acidity. Lively and a touch of mineral on the finish. Fine tannins with just a slight chew on the finish. Scented mid palate. (JH) 14%
LAVRADORES DE FEITORIA
Lavradores de Feitoria, Meruge 2010 Douro
Lavradores de Feitoria, Meruge 2010 Douro
Pale gold. Attractive spicy, cedary, oily lemon, a bit like Alsace Pinot Gris on the nose but also slightly floral. Round, rich even with quite moderate alcohol but fresh on the finish. Spicy aftertaste. (JH) 12.5%
Lavradores de Feitoria 2010 Douro
Lavradores de Feitoria, Três Bagos 2010 Douro
Lavradores de Feitoria, Três Bagos Grande Escolha 2008 Douro
Fresh but ripe, spicy red cherry fruit. Surprisingly lightweight and supple on the palate. Very fresh and quite delicate, maybe the old vines (60 years)? Dry but creamy tannins. (JH) 14%
Lavradores de Feitoria, Três Bagos 2008 Douro
Lavradores de Feitoria, Meruge 2008 Douro
Mid ruby, surprisingly developed colour. Sweet, spicy and delicately textured though the oak influence is also quite sweet. Silky and perfumed on the palate and very fresh. (JH) 14%
Lavradores de Feitoria 2009 Douro
LEMOS & VAN ZELLER
Lemos & van Zeller, CV Curriculum Vitae 2005 Douro
Deep, dark crimson. Smells riper and darker than the Quinta do Vale Dona Maria 2005, veering towards tar and molasses though the freshness of dark fruit counteracts those sweet aromas. Maybe a touch medicinal, too, certainly complex. Dense and still quite a bit of sweet oak spice on the palate, only now dying back in favour of the fruit. Firm, dense tannins, dry minerally aftertaste. Only just ready now but with food, please. (JH)
14.5%
LUA CHEIA EM VINHAS VELHAS
Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas 2011 Douro
Lovely clarity in the aroma – grapefruit and ripe green fruit. Tastes dry but quite creamy. Peachy and some peach kernel bitterness adding freshness and length. Zesty but also has a long stony finish. (JH) 13%
Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas, Reserva 2009 Douro
Gently toasty nose, with rich apricot fruit combined. Intense and inviting. Pretty oaky on the palate but also has that attractive cedary flacour so typical of Portuguese whites. Very good acidity to assure an interesting future, given the density of fruit without heaviness. Delicious in an oaky style. (JH) 13.5%
Andreza, Grande Reserva 2010 Douro
Very inviting creamy leesy citrus nose – oak evident but finely integrated just adding a slight smoky layer. Wonderful nose – both intense and elegant. The oak seems a little more heavy-handed on the palate, a little bit hard, but I think this just needs more time in the bottle. It will be interesting to see how this tastes tomorrow. (JH) 14%
Andreza, Grande Reserva 2010 Douro
Pale citrus colour. Intense spiced citrus aroma with mineral and grapefruit notes. Cool, fresh and then a grapefruit pith sour freshness on the finish. Good length. (JH) 14%
Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas, Colleja 2011 Douro
A little bit rubbery on the nose and very noticeable sweet oak on the palate. A clash of sweet fruit and oak that creates a harshness that leaves your mouth feeling like it needs water. I guess it may improve with a little more time in bottle. (JH) 14%
Andreza, Reserva 2010 Douro
Dark cherry colour. Spicy, almost savoury dark fruit with just a hint of vanilla sweetness. Lots of sweet fruit on the palate but there's a bitterness there too – not sure if it is overextraction of over-oaking and I am not sure it will dissipate as it ages. Dense, chewy but ripe tannins. Ambitious but maybe trying too hard. Much preferred the Andreza white Reserva. (JH) 14.5%
Andreza, Reserva 2009 Douro
Rich blackberry and cassis aromas. Pure fruit with only a light coating of oak. Then much more savoury on the palate, more like elderberry. Fine tannins and surprisingly juicy on the finish. Well balanced and fluid, surprisingly approachable fine-grained tannins. (JH) 14%
LUA NOVA
Lua Nova, Em Vinhas Velhas 2010 Douro
Deep, bright cherry red. Fragrant and mostly red fruited on the nose. Lithe and tight and has the effortless concentration of old vines. Tannins are fine grained and dry, the acidity fresh. Harmonious and long. (JH) 13.5%
QUINTA DE LUBAZIM
Quinta de Lubazim 2010 Douro
Quinta de Lubazim, Grande Reserva 2008 Douro
Quinta de Lubazim, Grande Reserva 2007 Douro
QUINTA DA MANUELA
Quinta da Manuela, Vinhas Velhas 2009 Douro
Rich ruby crimson. Fragrant red fruit, gently aromatic. Touch of wild herbs. Lovely fresh red fruit. Again effortless concentration. So elegant and yet full of lively fruit. Tannins need time but are super silky in the making. Currently quite chewy on the finish and very long with some sweet vanilla at the very end. Scented mid palate. Douro version of Pinot. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta da Manuela, Vinhas Velhas 2009 Douro
Gentle pure fruit, quite restrained but still fragrant and a little dusty/mineral and opens up to more floral overtones. Tannins are fine grained but very dry and need a lot more time in bottle (or a big steak). Even though there's this dry concentration, it still has a smoothness across the mid palate, lithe and waiting to come round. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta da Manuela 2001 Douro
MANZWINE
ManzWine, Manz 2009 Douro
Slightly baked Douro fruit on the nose, rich and full of pure dark fruit on the palate. Intense unadulterated fruit. Minerality comes through too. Dark and savoury on the finish and the tannins are smoothed. Long and just a hint of that baked fruit on the finish. (JH) 14.5%
ManzWine, Manz 2009 Douro
Deep red cherry colour. Intense, pure cherry aromas with delicate and spicy floral notes and a sour-cherry tanginess in the middle. Fruit is almost too intense on the palate, as if it had been concentrated in some way (though I am sure it hasn't.) But the fine grip and the acidity just keep the fruit under control. Then there's a nice savoury finish. Sweet, intense pure fruit. The aftertaste is a bit like having sucked a boiled sweet. (JH) 14.5%
MARITÁVORA
Maritávora, Reserva 2009 Douro
Oily citrus aroma. A touch of spice. Quite oaky on the palate with some grapefruit pith asperity. pH 3.1. Fermented in new French oak. Very fresh but a little austere. (JH) 12.5%
Maritávora, Reserva 2008 Douro
Warm black cherry colour. Slightly charry, possibly a little reduced on the nose. With some air, bright dark cherries appear but still with a dusty, mineral overlay. Lots of spice and grip and freshness balance the dense, dark fruit. Dry and chalky on the finish. Seems to be rather closed down. (JH) 14%
VINHA DE MAZOUCO
Vinha de Mazouco, Reserva 2008 Douro
Black cherry colour. Aromatic, rich dark fruit and a touch of spice. Second bottle is better but still a bit bitter and hard on the palate. (JH) 14.4%
CAVES MESSIAS
Caves Messias, Dados Reserva 2008 Douro
Deeply coloured. Aromas of small dark berries, a little smoky. Dark and savoury and inviting. Just a hint of tar. Sweet oak on the palate (10 months in French and American oak), less appealing than the savoury character of the nose. Dry and firm and dense. Lacks energy and freshness on the palate. (JH) 14%
Caves Messias, Quinta do Cachão Grande Escolha 2007 Douro
Dark crimson. Extreme sweetness on the nose, but not overripeness. Lots of red fruit and a touch of mocha. 14 months in French oak. Soft, easy, rounded. Undemanding but easy to drink. (JH) 14.5%
QUINTA DE MOSTEIRÔ
Quinta de Mosteirô Rabigato 2010 Douro
Fresh, mineral and citrus, slight leesy note. Surprisingly flat on the palate even though the pH is 3.29. Shame it lacks life because the nose is inviting. (JH) 12.5%
Quinta de Mosteirô, Reserva 2004 Douro
Deep ruby. Dusty nose. A little spirity and peppery. Very fresh acidity, relatively light in weight though the alcohol is not light. Juicy and fresh but no more. Doesn't seem terribly Douro. (JH) 14.5%
QUINTA DOS MURÇAS
Quinta dos Murças, Assobio 2009 Douro
Deep, greyish crimson. Slight greenness. Very fresh and early picked. Firm, tight tannins. (JH)
Quinta dos Murças, Assobio 2009 Douro
Bright dark cherry colour. A touch herbal on the nose and then darker fruit on the palate. Not very fair on the wine to taste it in this order. A little dilute on the mid palate but fresh and the fruit is to the fore. Shortish finish. (JH) 13.5%
Quinta dos Murças 2008 Douro
Ripe sweet dark fruit but not raisined though there's a hint of fruit cake. Touch of chocolate. Very fluid though structured. Fine tannins. Some peppery notes, red fruits. Cool vintage. Dry and fine. Elegant. (JH) 14%
Quinta dos Murças, Reserva 2008 Douro
Deep blackish crimson. Ripe, dark, hint of Douro bake but not overripe. A little spirity on the nose. Taut and firm and quite (attractively) austere at the moment though the finish is more juicy. Pretty closed at the moment and more to come. Fine tension and freshness on the finish and good length. (JH) 14%
Quinta dos Murças, Reserva 2008 Douro
Inky, dark crimson. Gentle sweet plum flavour and dark, small-berried fruit. Very fine grained. Dry, condensed and dense but not heavy. Very good freshness and finesse. Classy and balanced. (JH) 14%
MUXAGAT
Muxagat, MUX 2010 Douro
Very pale. Gently and invitingly honeyed and creamy but mineral too. Soft on the palate, honey and cedar too though it's dry and then a little bitter on the finish. Unusual. (JH) 13%
Muxagat, Os Xistos Altos Rabigato 2010 Douro
100% Rabigato from their highest parcels of 20-year-old Rabigato at 500 m in the Douro Superior on schist. Cooled for 12 hours to 10 ºC. Fermented in large oak (2,000 litres) with indigenous yeasts. Aged 14 months in foudres. pH 3.3.
Pale straw. Inviting nose of quince and citrus along with nutty and salty notes. Oatmeal too. Very crisp and mouthwateringly zesty on the palate. Pure, penetrating and lively and a salty/creamy finish. Refined and expressive but just lacks a certain persistence. Gives the impression that it will age well in bottle – and seems barely to have aged so far – though I haven't tasted any older vintages. (JH)
Muxagat Tinta Barroca 2010 Douro
Slightly reduced – smells like it has just come out of the vat. Quite difficult to taste at this stage. Shame because it could be interesting. After carafing: much better, though the oak is now to the fore. Pretty dry and drying at the moment. Not sure Tinta Barroca is one for a varietal. Too highly structured but maybe it will come round. (JH) 13.5%
NIEPOORT
Niepoort, Redoma 2010 Douro
Gorgeous smoky, oaky mealy nose with a fine orange lift. Complete, creamy but fresh and mineral too. Fragrant and long and already complex with apricot and citrus on the finish. (JH) 13%
Niepoort, Redoma Reserva 2010 Douro
Oak is quite subtle on the nose, less so on the palate at this stage, a touch reductive, but reveals lovely depth of generous fruit underneath, apricot and lemon with a touch of orange. Fresh but creamy on the finish. Dry, finely textured and long. Very gentle and elegant overall. (JH) 13.5%
Niepoort, Tiara 2010 Douro
Niepoort, Coche 2010 Douro
Niepoort, Bioma 2010 Douro
Mid purplish cherry colour. Wonderfully pure fresh dark fruit – dark cherry and blackberry – with great freshness, fine and subtle but noticeable fruit tannins. Very good fruit depth, just a touch of spice and earth, deliciously unoaked. (JH) 13.4%
Niepoort, Drink Me 2009 Douro
Niepoort, Drink Me 2008 Douro
Niepoort, Charme 2009 Douro
Niepoort, Charme 2009 Douro
Mid crimson (lighter than most in this flight). Delicate red fruits on the nose, quite sweet-smelling, a little earthy. Slight concern as to whether there was just a hint of TCA. Nevertheless, there is still that freshness and elegance that characterises this wine though there's a slight hardness on the finish. More plum on the palate, dense but lively, then more savoury on the finish. My score is based on how I think a better bottle would be. Very long. (JH) 14%
Niepoort, Redoma 2009 Douro
Deep glowing cherry red. Darker smelling and less fragrant than the Batuta. Pretty closed at the moment. Concentrated and moreish on the palate but with a lightness of touch and a long savoury finish. Fine minerally dry character. Not austere but not trying to charm. Needs time. (JH) 14%
Niepoort, Redoma 2008 Douro
Black cherry colour. Such fine tannins that you notice them first. Silky, the texture is the thing. Fine dark fruit. Refined and elegant. (JH) 13.5%
Niepoort, Batuta 2009 Douro
Deep cherry red. Refined and lightly scented red fruits with just a hint of oak spice and some riper fruit notes. Silky and juicy on the palate, fresh and finishes dry. There's clearly some ripe fruit in there but held in check by the freshness and finesse. (JH) 13.5%
Niepoort, Batuta 2008 Douro
Deep crimson with bluish rim. Subtle fresh fruit, slight stemmy note, silky fresh and just a touch of mocha on the finish. Elegant and so silky. pH 3.64. 24 months in French oak but the oak currently shows mainly on the finish. Scented red fruit on the mid palate. Long and lingering with the lightness of touch of old vines and restrained winemaking. (JH) 13.5%
Niepoort, Vertente 2008 Douro
Deep ruby. Dark fruit and dark chocolate on the nose, just a little peppery. Then silky, reassuring and fresh on the palate. As it opens up, more scented. Delicate and very long. Elegantissimo. (JH) 13.5%
Niepoort, Robustus 2007 Douro
Mid ruby, lighter than most Douro reds. Refined aromas of red fruits and a touch of spice with a strong mineral element. Not giving much away but very inviting. Firm but silky tannins and a lovely dry finish with freshness and length. Deliciously free from oak overlay. A wine that dares to be different, and succeeds. I love its slighly austere pepperiness and complete lack of excess sweetness. (JH) 13.5%
Niepoort, OmLet 2007 Douro
Chalky dry texture but it glides across the palate. Peppery. Tiny tangy dark berries. Intense but fleet of foot. Quite restrained on the nose. Long finish that is both dry and juicy. (JH) 13.5%
Niepoort, OmLet 2005 Douro
Black cherry colour. Sweet, ripe and dark but more like loganberry than damson. Light spice, hint of dark chocolate. Chewy, fresh and full of energy. More dark plum on the palate. Lively, fluid and refreshing. Finesse and length. Still amazingly youthful with a real tension all the way through and a touch of minerality at the last. (JH) 13%
QUINTA NOVA DE NOSSA SENHORA DO CARMO
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Reserva 2009 Douro
Blackberry fruit but also dark and savoury and a little smoky. Savoury on the palate too. Tense, dry, firm and fresh. More austere than some but none the worse for that. Needs time. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Grainha Reserva 2009 Douro
Acidity sticks out a bit on the finish after the raisiny ripe aroma. Tannins are already quite soft (for the Douro). Not very harmonious. (JH) 14.6%
QUINTA DO NOVAL
Quinta do Noval 2008 Douro
Quinta do Noval 2008 Douro
Quinta do Noval 2008 Douro
Quinta do Noval Touriga Nacional 2008 Douro
Quinta do Noval, Cedro do Noval 2008 Vinho Regional Duriense
OBOÉ
Oboé, Superior 2009 Douro
Attractive herbal aroma as well as dark plums. Quite a bit of oak evident on the palate, masking the fruit at the moment. A little bit hard on the palate and without more flesh, the alcohol shows a touch on the finish. (JH) 14%
Oboé, Grande Escolha 2008 Douro
Black cherry colour. Strongly baked, verging on burnt rubber, aroma, and a little spirity. Tannins are fine grained but the overall impression is rather hard. Decanted: less locked up and brighter on the nose, and not as hard on the palate. Longer too. Still relatively austere but much improved by aeration. (JH) 14.5%
QUINTA DA PACHECA
Quinta da Pacheca, Vinha da Rita 2009 Douro
Colour of elderberry juice. Savoury black fruit lifted by sweet oak spice and a touch of black pepper. Hint of vanilla sweentess that becomes more marked on the palate. Firm, smooth and dense but juicy on the finish too. Thickly textured but rounded. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta da Pacheca, Grande Touriga Nacional Reserva 2009 Douro
QUINTA DO PASSADOURO
Quinta do Passadouro 2010 Douro
Watery white. Fragrant mix of pear, delicate white blossom, and grapefruit. Some mineral texture on the palate then pear flavour and texture. A light grip. Mineral on the finish too. Fresh and quite tight. Long too. Mouthwatering aftertaste. (JH) 12.5%
Quinta do Passadouro 2009 Douro
Quinta do Passadouro, Reserva 2009 Douro
Black core. Perfumed nose of blackcurrant pastilles. Sweet and slightly floral and spicy on the nose. Firm tannins but succulent underneath and fresh on the finish. Deep but lively and alcohol not too evident. (JH) 14.9%
Quinta do Passadouro, Reserva 2009 Douro
Dark and subtle on the nose though you know there's masses of ripe but not too sweet dark fruit. Effortless concentration of old vines, giving great elegance and refinement even in youth. Tannins are dense and super-smooth. Terrific wine with so much more to come. Then at the end the purity of the fruit shines through again, even with all that structure around it. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Passadouro 2009 Douro
Inky, markedly floral perfume initially. Fine dark fruit on the palate. Modern, fresh, lively. Fragrant on the mid palate too and dark and fresh. A little chewy too. Clean and dark and dry on the finish. GV (JH) 14.9%
Quinta do Passadouro 2009 Douro
Rich dark glowing crimson. Lovely sweet red cherry nose and an orange fragrance. Lifted and inviting fruit aromas. Marked by red fruit all the way through. Slight note of cough linctus on the palate. Lively, spicy and refreshing. Firm but fine tannins. Still very young. Fresh bright finish. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Passadouro 2008 Douro
QUINTA DA PEDRA ALTA
Quinta da Pedra Alta, Pessoal Reserva 2008 Douro
Aromas of mainly sweet oak spice (Nine months in French and American oak) but there's dark cherry fruit underneath. A little bit charry and tart. Pretty oaky on the palate too. Firm grip and a bit abrupt on the finish. Overoaked at least for the moment and alcohol shows. (JH) 15%
Quinta da Pedra Alta Touriga Nacional 2007 Douro
Dark black cherry colour. Lots of toast and roasted coffee aroma. Then under the oak, markedly floral – violets and bergamot. Then surprisingly liquid and fresh across the palate even though the pH is 3.83. A little bit hard on the finish. (JH) 14.5%
POÇAS
Poças Júnior, Vale de Cavalos 2009 Douro
Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca. Douro Superior. 40- to 60-year-old vines. Eight months in new French and American oak.
Warm, ripe and spicy. Damson fruit. Then lots of vanilla and coconut and mocha on the palate, rather defeating the fruit at this stage. Too much oak sweetness for me and then the oak is drying it out. (JH)
QUINTA DOS POÇAS
Poças Júnior, MG XXI 2009 Douro
Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Donzelinho Tinto, Rufete, Sousão, Tinta Cão. Stupid heavy bottle. Poços = wells. Lamego – Cima Corgo. 18 months in French oak, new and used.
Ripe blackberry, touch of vanilla and orange and just a little spirity on the nose. Thick and velvety, massive in the mouth. Lots of spice. Finishes dense and dry and only just fresh. Rich, chewy and generous. Not for the faint-hearted. (JH)
Poças Júnior, Grande Reserva 2009 Douro
Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz. Douro Superior. Part of Douro Family Estates. One of the oldest estates in the Douro Superior.
Very dark black cherry colour. Restrained on the nose but much more expressive on the palate. Lively black fruit. Dry and chewy but well balanced by the savoury and dark fruit. Powerful, intense and long though the finish is a little heavy and hard. (JH)
POEIRA
Poeira, Pó de Poeira 2010 Vinho Regional Duriense
Poeira, Pó de Poeira 2009 Douro
Poeira 2009 Douro
Colour of elderberry juice. Smells a little reduced at the moment. Smells of elderberry juice too. Dark, baked but not raisined on the nose. Then so savoury and coal-like on the palate. There's fruit density rather than fruit flavour at the moment. All in its shell and not wanting to come out for a while. Firm but smooth tannins and just fresh on the finish though the minerality is very marked on the aftertaste, which adds to the freshness. (JH)
Poeira 2009 Douro
Fragrant with a light note of orange and bergamot. Intense but not fully revealed. Gentle red and dark fruit. Super fine super silky tannins even now. But the concentration builds in the mouth to a long pure finish. Beautifully balanced and elegant. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DO PÔPA
Quinta do Pôpa Tinta Roriz 2008 Douro
Mid ruby. Spiced red fruit aroma. Gentle on the nose then fresh and bright on the palate. Fresh hedgerow berries. Light oak touch then very fresh acidity. Fine and fresh on the finish. Bright and lingering. Fine grip. (JH) 14%
Quinta do Pôpa, Vinhas Velhas 2008 Douro
Dark crimson but not as dense as Touriga Nacional in colour. Sweet red fruit on the nose, slightly mineral. Gentle and red fruited on the palate too. Silky and fresh. Elegant with the oak sweetness showing more on the finish. Juicy and bright but long too. Lively and bright. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Pôpa, Vinhas Velhas 2007 Douro
Small berry fruit. Sweet oak char. Fresh and refreshing. Dark and savoury char on the finish at the moment (oak). Very firm tannins but refined texture. Savoury finish. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Pôpa, Homenagem 2008 Douro
Quinta do Pôpa, PaPo 2008 Vinho de Mesa
Slightly dusty red fruit on the nose. Elegant and juicy and fresh but also highly structured from the Baga. Do not approach just yet. (JH) 13.5%
Quinta do Pôpa, Vinho Tinto Doce 2010 Vinho de Mesa
Pinkish purple. Blackcurrant candy and a touch of spice. Experimental in 2010. Nice sour cherry nose. Fun and juicy and and a light tannic grip. Finishes a bit short but next year, they say, it will have more concentration. Smart labelling, as for all the wines. (JH) 9.5%
QUINTA DO PORTAL
Quinta do Portal, Mural de Favaios 2009 Douro
Fabulous burnt orange colour. And smells of burnt oranges too. And reduced apricots. Lots of caramelised orange and barley sugar on the palate, some dark toffee and a slight tannic grip that nicely undermines the sweetness. (JH) 17%
Quinta do Portal, Reserva 2004 Douro
Again a beautiful colour, so hard to describe, like deep burnt orangey gold. Dark orange. Like ths sun as it is about to disappear on the horizon. Alcohol seems more present on the palate than for the Mural de Favaios, though the flavours are more complex. Less barley sugar and more bitter marmalade. A little less tannic too. Still needs more time. (JH) 18%
Quinta do Portal, Grande Reserva 2007 Douro
Fresh and scented, with the light concentration of old vines – ie concentrated but not heavy. More red than dark fruit. Then savoury and almost a little tart on the palate. Lively and long and really juicy on the finish. (JH) 14.1%
Quinta do Portal, Late Harvest 2009 Douro
Deeply honeyed apricots. Very sweet, just a touch of botrtyis orange character but mostly sweet with some barley sugar. Not particularly complex (yet) and a slight grainy texture on the finish. (JH) 12.1%
PV
PV, Egle 2010 Douro
Quinta do Sagrado, PV 2007 Douro
Black cherry colour. Dark fruit and a hint of chocolate on the nose, some garrigue, then much drier-textured and juicier on the palate than I expected. Fresh and lively. (JH) 13.5%
QUANTA TERRA
Quanta Terra, Grande Reserva 2009 Douro
Mid gold. Gently honey lemon with something riper, not quite pineapple but also an attractive smoky edge. Dense and rich and full bodied, creamy texture, oaky spice but not overoaked. Fresh tight finish to a powerful wine. (JH) 14.6%
Quanta Terra, Terra a Terra Reserva 2008 Douro
Lifted cherry aromas and oak sweetness. Lots of vanilla on the palate, vanilla and malted milk (12 months in French oak). Fine but dryish tannins. That oak sweetness is a little overwhelming at the moment. Nose better than the palate. (JH) 14.5%
RAMOS PINTO
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Reserva 2010 Douro
Dusty, mineral, grapefruit-pith freshness, the oak note very light. Salty citrus depth on the palate. Fresh, rounded and complete. Sour pithy finish increases the freshness but the lees ageing gives a richness to balance. Long and more to come. (JH) 13%
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Reserva 2009 Douro
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas 2009 Douro
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas 2009 Douro
Bright purple. Gentle damson and red fruit nose. Aromatic with a mineral, dusty overlay. Then rich in flavour but elegant in texture. Very fresh acidity and lingers well. Used oak and only for a small part of the wine. (JH) 14%
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Reserva 2009 Douro
Deep dark crimson. Restrained, minerally dark fruit. Stony, rocky aroma overlays some very ripe but almost savoury fruit. Richness and just enough freshness, even with all that alcohol. Fine, firm savoury tannins. Really sturdy without being brutish. Surprisingly juicy finish. Very accomplished Douro red. (JH) 15%
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Reserva 2009 Douro
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Reserva 2008 Douro
Deep dark cherry. Pure bright cherry and blackberry fruit on the nose with a slight dusty overlay and just a hint of very ripe damsons but counterbalanced by a savoury oak note. Unexpectedly elegant on the palate – fresh and fleet of foot but with fresh length too. Paper-fine tannins present but subtle. Hides its alcohol well. Cool, refined and fresh. (JH) 15%
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Reserva 2008 Douro
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Reserva 2007 Douro
Touch of sweet oak spice but there's greater fruit intensity too. Dark plum, blueberry, damson, all dark but sweet and still shows mineral overlay of the Duas Quintas. Lovely texture, fine-grained, fluid, but has that lovely dark coaly texture and remains fresh on the finish. (JH) 15%
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Especial Reserva 2004 Douro
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Especial Reserva 2004 Douro
Ramos Pinto, Duas Quintas Especial Reserva 2000 Douro
Ramos Pinto, Collection 2008 Douro
Ramos Pinto, Collection 2007 Douro
QUINTA DA REDE
Quinta da Rede, Reserva 2011 Douro
Very pale. Zesty citrus and quince with a touch of oak on the nose but its subtle. Oak a little more evident on the palate. Creamy and lively at the same time. Grapefruit and lemon and a flinty note. Youthful, dry, fresh. (JH) 13%
Quinta da Rede, Reserva 2010 Douro
Very pale. Cedary oak on the nose along with fresh herbal, almost floral aromas. Quite a lot going on. Creaminess shows on the nose and palate and that cedary, almost resinous character of classic Portuguese whites comes through. Moreish finish. (JH) 12.5%
Quinta da Rede, Reserva 2009 Douro
Very pale cold – noticeably darker than the 2010. Complex and inviting nose. Resinous freshness, just a touch buttery, but also lovely herbal cedary aromas from the time in bottle. Starts well in the mouth but fades a little on the finish, leaving quite a strong woody (not oaky) aftertaste though still holds its freshness. (JH) 13.5%
Quinta da Rede, Reserva 2009 Douro
Very dark like elderberry juice. And lots of lightly charred oak notes with sweet notes of vanilla too, all overlaying the dark fruit at the moment. Not sure if the spice is fruit or oak-derived. Powerful and dense but not heavy, though I find the oak too dominant even now. There's some very nice fruit underneath, concentrated too, and just enough freshness so it's a shame that the oak overwhelms it, otherwise I might have scored it higher. Nice tannins – compact and a little chewy but fully ripe and sweet. (JH) 14%
RESTRITO
Restrito 2010 Douro
Slightly woody nose (no oak), more cedary. Opens up to more citrus. Very clean and fresh and dry with a slight grip. Not a lot of fruit flavour – more about the mineral texture and grip. Viosinho texture is very nice. Very upright and distinctive but not for fruit lovers. Not a great amount of depth but cool length. (JH) 12%
Restrito, Grande Escolha 2007 Douro
Inky black. Very very ripe Douro damsons and plums. Sweet blueberries. Dark dry tannins on the palate, fresh and fine grained. Dark and coaly on the finish. Savoury length. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DA ROMANEIRA
Quinta da Romaneira, Reserva 2008 Douro
Deep purplish crimson. Finely aromatic, mostly in the red fruit spectrum. But also blackberry and an attractive garrique, dusty arid scrub note. Delicate spice. Silky, fresh and still has good density and length. Real finesse and elegance even in youth. (JH) 14%
Quinta da Romaneira, Reserva 2008 Douro
Quinta da Romaneira 2008 Douro
Bright black cherry colour. Cedary cassis nose. Fragrant, fresh and gentle but not soft or simple. Refreshing and lively. Oak well hidden, with a gentle grip on the finish. Well balanced. Not trying too hard. (JH) 13.5%
QUINTA DO ROMEU
Quinta do Romeu, Romeu & Julieta Rosé 2010 Douro
Deep golden pink, has both the colour and the aroma of Victoria plums. Dry, very fresh, light red fruit such as cherry and a touch of something more tangy/sour like grapefruit. Slight grip on the finish. Does the job. (JH) 12.5%
Quinta do Romeu, Romeu 2010 Douro
Black cherry with wide smudgy rim. Exotic dark fruit on the nose and the classic bergamot of Touriga Nacional. Smells decadent and perfumed. Dense, rich and chewy on the palate. Bags of flavour. Smooth and generous but fresh too (TA 6.45 g/l). Orange zesty aftertaste with spicy length. (JH) 13.4%
QUINTA DE RORIZ
Quinta de Roriz 2009 Douro
Deep crimson. Gentle, lightish, smooth tannins and easy pleasure. Both fruity and savoury. A good introduction to the Douro. (JH)
Quinta de Roriz, Prazo de Roriz 2008 Douro
Deep ruby. Gentle, fresh, lightly spiced red fruit. Very fresh and lively with a definite but not aggressive grip. A little spirity on the nose but the alcohol is less evident on the palate though the finish is warm. Juicy but well structured. GV compared with many a Douro red. Fresh, dry and minerally on the finish. Good intro to Douro table wines. Oak well in check. (JH) 14%
Quinta de Roriz, Prazo de Roriz 2008 Douro
Dark and savoury. Oaky spice but good fruit depth. This is good to wean lovers of NW richness onto the more savoury European style of the Douro. A little bit tight on the finish. Fresh though. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DE LA ROSA
Passagem 2010 Douro
Field blend. 'The crossing'. Douro Superior. Two to three days' skin contact and matured on lees in used oak with lees stirring.
Mineral, pine-forest freshness. Amazingly full in the mouth given the 1.8 g/l RS though the alcohol is 13.6%. Mostly citrus but also a touch of fresh pineapple. Powerful and long. (JH)
Quinta de la Rosa, La Rosa 2010 Douro
Lovley spiced mineral nose with a touch of reductive smokiness at this young stage. Tight, zesty, less rich in the mouth than I expected, more tension, but has lots of energy and verve. (JH) 13.3%
Passagem 2009 Douro
Mainly Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. Bottled 2011. From Quinta das Bandeiras, near Pocinho, opposite Vale Meão. Owned by the Berquist family but a JV with Jorge Moreira. 18 months in French oak.
Black core. First impression is delicately floral. With aeration, there's more of that Touriga Nacional typical bergamot note and small black berries. Finely aromatic without being OTT. Lively juicy and sweet-fruited on the palate. Fresher than so many 2009s. Taut, zesty and dry but the tannins are fine grained. Good length. Less savoury than many. Maybe just a little too floral as it opens up. (JH)
Quinta de la Rosa, La Rosa Reserva 2009 Douro
Clean, pure and very dark fruit with a light mineral overlay. Intense and succulent with firm but very smooth-edged tannins. Cool savoury finish even though there's plenty of alcohol. Dry and fresh and very embryonic on the palate. Some oak spice but the oak influence mainly swallowed up by the ripe dark fruit. (JH) 14.8%
ROZÈS
Rozès, Quinta do Grifo Reserva 2008 Douro
Rich, ripe and spicy on the nose. Just a hint of smoky/toasty oak. Then surprisingly dry, with papery tannins and freshness on the finish. Nose and palate quite different. A bit abrupt and lacking concentration on the finish. (JH) 13.5%
Rozès, Rozès Noble Late Harvest 2009 Douro
Mid gold. Oily orange and apricot nose, hint of marzipan, lots of botrytis character. Intense and spiced and rich. Just fresh enough and bags of flavour. Tangy. (JH) 14.5%
CAVES SANTA MARTA
Caves Santa Marta, Montes Pintados 2009 Douro
Very dark. Slightly meaty dark fruit and a mineral edge. Firm, harmonious and savoury on the finish. Sweet and smooth on the mid palate. Correct and nice juicy finish despite the alcohol. (JH) 15%
QUINTA DE SÃO JOSÉ
Quinta de São José, Grande Reserva 2009 Douro
Black core. Spiced damsons, rich and concentrated on the nose and Touriga Nacional violets. Very sweet on the palate, and without the savoury edge to balance. Soft and sweet even though it is full bodied. Too sweet for my taste and lacks freshness on the finish. Boiled sweet aftertaste. (JH) 14.6%
SECRET SPOT
Secret Spot, Crooked Vines 2010 Douro
Ripe but minerally fruit – not quite tropical but heading that way. Full and bright in the mouth, crisp citrus freshness and a creamy aftertaste. (JH) 14.1%
Secret Spot, Crooked Vines 2007 Douro
Pure and intense spiced black plums and damsons. Winning aromas. Just the right side of very ripe. Fresh, smooth, juicy and a nice savoury, almost sour aftertaste. Really like the savoury edge though there's a bit of heat on the finish. Very Douro, good concentration. Great food wine. Tannins are firm but not at all aggressive. (JH) 15.5%
Secret Spot 2007 Douro
QUINTA DA SEQUEIRA
Quinta da Sequeira, Branco 2010 Douro
Very pale straw. Intensely aromatic. Lemon, grapefruit and herbs and very faint grassy note. Plus pear and even white peach. Very inviting on the nose. But it’s not all fruit. There’s also a mineral streak. Surprisingly sweet on the palate – the sweetness comes as a bit of a shock (RS 11.7 g/l), though the fruit is fresh and precisely mirrors the aromas, with plenty of ripe pear flavour. A slight chalky texture adds interest on the palate and a delicate sour freshness of grapefruit on the finish. Very long but there’s just too much sweetness for an ideal balance, otherwise I would probably have marked it higher. (Producer says it's what his customer wants and that it would be easier to make a dry wine.) (JH) 13%
Quinta da Sequeira, Branco Reserva 2010 Douro
Very pale gold, notably more deeply coloured than the straight Branco. Nice oaky aromas – gently oxidative and honeyed with a touch of oak spice. But then a tangy quince and apricot fruit depth and a touch of grapefruit pith bitterness/freshness. Rich and broad on the palate but still a fresh streak. An oxidative/oaky style but very deliberate and controlled. Long and generous. (JH) 14%
Quinta da Sequeira, Grande Reserva 2008 Douro
Deep crimson, opaque at the core. Complex aroma that shows spice and coffee, probably from the oak, but also intense and ripe damson fruit. Massive and mouthfilling with masses of very ripe black fruit, just avoiding overripeness though there is a very slight hint of raisins and lots of fruitcake on the palate. Firm, chewy but ripe tannins. Very powerful with chocolate sweetness on the finish. Not really my kind of wine but well made in this powerful, ripe style that reflects the heat of the Douro. At 16% it is hard not to think of port, though this is dry. I think this will reward a good bit longer in the bottle. (JH) 16%
Quinta da Sequeira, Grande Reserva 2007 Douro
Quinta da Sequeira, Grande Reserva 2007 Douro
Dark inky crimson. First hint is vanilla-oak sweetness, then sweet cherry and intense dark cherry aroma but with a similar smoky mineral overlay as the Reserva. Sweet and sour seem a little bit separate at the moment but this definitely needs time and patience to mesh and settle down. Firm, dry, grippy tannins with some sweetness in the middle then a dry, savoury long finish. Tangy and juicy even with all the density and power. Alcohol well hidden. Reserva is more elegant. (JH)
Quinta da Sequeira, Reserva 2005 Douro
Fragrant with both red and black fruit, though mostly dark, lively on the nose though the alcohol shows a little. Dense, chewy and rich. Mouthfilling but not heavy. Pretty chewy on the finish, thickly textured tannins. Just about fresh though the pH is a respectable 3.6 and there is freshness if you look for it beyond the warmth of the alcohol. Classic Douro and oak is not OTT. Very complete and good length. (JH) 15%
Quinta da Sequeira, Reserva 2005 Douro
Deep black cherry colour. Smoky (slightly reductive), ripe sour cherry, and lots of dark fruit but with an attractive spicy, savoury, mineral restraint. Intense but not overly sweet. That same dark savoury character shines through even more clearly on the palate, with a surprising freshness and balance given the alcohol. Almost a bitterness on the finish, which increases the freshness. Compact, fine, dense tannins that are only just ready to yield now and have a good way to go. Refined power. (JH) 15%
Quinta da Sequeira, Colheita Tardia 2009 Douro
Pale gold. Honeyed but with lots of apricot and orange fruit and bitter orange peel. Pure, fresh and intense. No botrytis. Sweet, honeyed on the palate. Just fresh enough and the texture is caressingly smooth. Oak very well integrated. Likely to gain in complexity. (JH) 12%
QUINTA DO SILVAL
Quinta do Silval, Special Sensations Grande Reserva 2008 Douro
Quinta do Silval, Dorna Velha Grande Reserva 2007 Douro
Very dark black cherry colour. Fragrant pure dark fruit with the oak very subtle but adding spice. Fresh, dry and very elegant and dry mineral edge. Light on its feet. Powder-fine tannins, not a huge amount of flesh but good length. Touch of oak toast comes back on the finish. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DO SOQUE
Quinta do Soque, Reserva 2008 Douro
Moreish and savoury on the palate after elegant red fruit freshness on the nose. Has that silky concentration typical of old vines – sustained by not heavy. Spicy but not overly oaky (18 months in new 500-litre French oak). Light chew on the finish and alcohol well hidden so that it seems to finish cool. pH 3.5. (JH) 14.6%
Quinta do Soque, Vinhas Velhas 2008 Douro
Very ripe, very sweet aroma, both raisiny and still that orange note of Touriga Nacional. Juicy and fresh, surprisingly so after the ripeness on the nose. Perhaps the sweetness is also due to the American oak. Typical paradox of Douro – almost raisiny on the nose and yet has good acidity and firm tannin structure. (JH) 13.9%
QUINTA DAS TECEDEIRAS
Quinta das Tecedeiras, Flor das Tecedeiras 2008 Douro
Dark crimson. Finely aromatic – delicate floral notes from the Touriga Nacional but also more wild, peppery cedar note – almost a little stemmy. So expressive and inviting with a strong mineral element. Dry, fresh and sophisticated, verging on the lean. Firm, fine tannins and real freshness on the finish with little sign of the alcohol. (JH) 14%
Quinta das Tecedeiras, Reserva 2008 Douro
Deep dark cherry colour. Dark fruit, mocha and spice on the nose. Quite peppery. Then really supple and fresh on the palate. Harmonious and whole. Firm but fine tannins. Just a little dry on the finish. (JH) 14.5%
QUINTA DA TOURIGA
Quinta da Touriga, Chã 2008 Douro
Inky core. Ripe, fruitcake nose with sweet damson fruit. A little bit hard (and hard work) on the palate, which is a shame after the richness of the nose. Tannnis are on the astringent side and made harder by the alcohol. (JH) 15.3%
Quinta da Touriga, Chã 2007 Douro
Colour of elderberry juice. Dark, spicy and a little smoky. Very Douro nose – baked but savoury and mineral too with dark fruit. Sweet oak spice on the palate. Smoothed tannins. Generous and polished. Elegant and juicy on the finish. Not sure why I can't get excited about this. It's very well made but just seems to lack energy on the palate. Then the oak comes through on the finish. Accomplished. (JH) 15.5%
CAVES TRANSMONTANAS
Caves Transmontanas, Vértice Grande Reserva 2009 Douro
Caves Transmontanas, Vértice Gouveio Espumante 2005 Douro
Celso Pereira winemaker – well known for fizz. 50% fermented in barrique.
Pale bright gold. A little bit toasty but mostly fresh apple and citrus aromas. Lively, tastes bone dry (5.9 g/l) and pH 2.92. Very very crisp, youthful and mouthwatering. Bubbles fade fairly fast and there's a slight grip on the finish. (JH)
QUINTA VALE D MARIA
Quinta Vale D Maria 2009 Douro
Quinta Vale D Maria 2008 Douro
Quinta Vale D Maria 2005 Douro
Quinta Vale D Maria 2004 Douro
Deep ruby. Dark, savoury and mineral on the nose, with that coal-like association I have with the Douro. Lots of dark fruit too. Really fresh and savoury on the palate, a hint of tar. Firm, dry savoury finish. Big tannic wine but with the tannins now resolved and refined. Sweetness comes back on the long finish. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta Vale D Maria 2003 Douro
Quinta Vale D Maria 2002 Douro
Quinta Vale D Maria 2001 Douro
Deeply coloured. Gentle, sweetly aromatic. Mature red fruit. Firm, ripe and dense but not at all overripe even though there's some dried-fruit flavour in there. Not porty. Fine, dry tannins yet fresh and juicy on the finish even with this level of alcohol, just a touch warm at the back of the throat. (JH) 14.5%
QUINTA DO VALE DA FIGUEIRA
Quinta do Vale da Figueira, Reserva 2006 Douro
Lovely fragrant nose, gentle red fruit, light spice, and that lovely hinit of bergamot again. Lively and very fresh. Fine and dry and elegant. Has slightly less of the roasted edge of the 2005. Juicy and bright but not quite as complex as the 2005. And tannins are a little softer and sweeter. (JH) 14%
Quinta do Vale da Figueira, Reserva 2005 Douro
Rich very dark garnet. Scented and fresh with the classic Touriga Nacional bergamot and orange and slightly floral on the nose but with a fine roasted underpinning and the classic Douro darkness. Touch of mocha. Juicy and fluid and red fruited on the palate. Elegance and lightness of touch. Firm but fine tannins and it is the fluid quality that shines to the long finish. Maybe just a touch hard on the finish when you compare it with the 2006. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DO VALE DA PERDIZ
Quinta do Vale da Perdiz, Cistus Touriga Nacional 2008 Douro
Inky black core, deep purple rim. Floral mixed with sweet oak spice and small roasted and very ripe black fruit and a mineral edge. Rich, powerful and still juicy. A big mouthful. Firm but rounded tannins. Well made and full of flavour. Bold and rich. (JH) 15%
Quinta do Vale da Perdiz, Cistus Reserva 2008 Douro
Black cherry colour. Warm, rich, fruitcake spice, prunes. Similar flavours on the palate, with a more savoury note of roasted potato skins. Grippy tannins that finish dry and fresh acidity. Alcohol well hidden. (JH) 15%
QUINTA DO VALE DA RAPOSA
Quinta do Vale da Raposa Touriga Nacional 2009 Douro
Quinta do Vale da Raposa Touriga Nacional 2008 Douro
Quinta do Vale da Raposa Sousão 2009 Douro
QUINTA DO VALE MEÃO
Quinta do Vale Meão, Meandro 2009 Douro
57% Touriga Nacional. They produce 160,000 bottles of this second wine. Less Touriga Nacional than in the grand vin. Used French oak.
Deep garnet. Lots of spice on the nose. Firm, dry grip. Fresh and dry finish with a touch of heat. Flavour rather than sophistication at the moment and a nice juicy finish. (JH)
Quinta do Vale Meão 2008 Douro
Quinta do Vale Meão 2007 Douro
Quinta do Vale Meão 2009 Douro
Deep, inky black cherry colour. Touch of vanilla sweetness on the nose and lots of oak sweetness on the palate. Vanilla over dark fruit and black olive. Much finer tannins than Meandro even though they are more dense. Dry but sweet–fruited finish. Fine dark berries on the mid palate and more mineral than the Meandro. Overall sweet with a note of Touriga Nacional perfume. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Vale Meão, Meandro 2009 Douro
Oak in evidence on the nose, sweet and spicy. Powerful and velvety. Tannins are so plush but there's a marked mineral layer which pulls back the sometimes overly intense Touriga character to a fine balance. Touch of dark chocolate on the palate but mostly it is fluid, clear fruit and a spiced aftertaste. Refined and elegant even though it is powerful. Still has a touch of that Touriga bergamot and floral perfume but refined and retstrained. (JH) 14%
QUINTA DO VALLADO
Quinta do Vallado 2011 Douro
Quinta do Vallado Sousão 2009 Douro
Quinta do Vallado Touriga Nacional 2009 Douro
Quinta do Vallado, Field Blend Reserva 2009 Douro
Deep crimson. Sweet and spicy oak and dark fruit on the nose. But there's a clearly mineral Douro overlay. Vanilla laced black fruit on the palate with a sour/savoury aftertastes that lifts it from the initial sweetness. Warm finish but the fine, dry tannins add a contrasting cool edge to the aftertaste. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Vallado, Reserva 2004 Douro
Dark ruby with a very slight brick note at the rim. Minerally and dark fruited, a hint of cedar, refined and restrained rather than sumptuous on the nose. Very discreet but with a sense of promise. Silky, dry and elegant on the palate. Still plenty of primary fruit and a long way to go. Surprisingly little tertiary character. Slightly bitter finish brings it down. (JH) 14.5%
Quinta do Vallado Moscatel Galego Branco 2010 Douro
VAN ZELLERS
Van Zellers 2010 Douro
Van Zellers, VZ 2010 Douro
Van Zellers, CV Curriculum Vitae 2009 Douro
Too-heavy bottle. Barrique aged.
Deep, dark cherry crimson. Lots of sour red cherry on the nose too, quite lifted. Bags of peppery spice. Unexpectedly smooth at this young stage even though the tannins are so dense. I thought the alcohol would stand out more but that sour cherry flavour seems to undermine the alcohol's sweetening effect and there a more savoury dark finish. Needs time even though the tannins are so well managed. (JH)
HERNÂNI VERDELHO
Hernâni Verdelho, Dona Berta Rabigato Reserva 2005 Douro
Hernâni Verdelho, Dona Berta Rabigato Reserva 2001 Douro
Hernâni Verdelho, Dona Berta Xisto-Granito 2004 Douro
Velvety garnet colour. Slightly corky though you can see the dark raisiny and yet savoury fruit underneath. TCA has made the finish a bit hard. Second bottle: more meaty and open. Lively and red fruited with fine dry tannins. Fresh and fine grained on the finish. On the lighter side, elegant. Score is for the clean bottle. (JH) 13%
QUINTA DO VESUVIO
Quinta do Vesúvio 2009 Douro
Expressive Touriga Nacional aromas – floral and with a touch of orange. Plenty of dark fruit too, even a touch of liquorice. Surprisingly lithe on the palate and lovely and fresh, feels lighter in the mouth than the Pombal, more elegantly textured. Smooth and long but still fresh. (JH)
Quinta do Vesúvio, Pombal do Vesuvio 2009 Douro
WINE AND SOUL
Wine & Soul, Guru 2010 Douro
Rich but subtle savoury oak on the nose. Both spicy and mealy from that oak and lees contact. Dense, creamy and fresh on the palate. A touch of orange and clear citrus purity though the oak overlay is more evident at the moment. A touch smoky. Mouthfilling but still fresh and lively on the finish. Lovely freshness and a bright grapefruit and lemon aftertaste. Long. (JH) 12.5%
Wine & Soul, Guru 2008 Douro
Rich, almost exotic aroma: so complex – there's minerality, creamy citrus, pear, and so much more that cannot be teased apart. Oak is evident but so intertwined with all the other aromas that it doesn't stand out or dominate. On the palate, creamy texture, cedary citrus flavour and wonderful freshness even though it is mouthfilling and full-bodied. This is a fabulous example of oaked Douro white. As it opens out, there's that inviting quince aroma that reminds me a bit of the best Loire Chenin Blanc. Finishes cool and long with a blend of fruit and savoury. (JH) 12.5%
Wine & Soul, Pintas 2009 Douro
A little darker than the Character, black core. Intense and so aromatic you feel it can't quite escape the glass yet. Scented with dark fruit on the palate. Sweet but not overly sweet fruit. Really concentrated but has such fragrance and refinement. No excess of weight. Beautifully proportioned even in youth and very very long. (JH) 14.5%
Wine & Soul, Pintas 2009 Douro
Very dark with black cherry rim. Exotically spiced, intense and perfumed, just very slightly floral. But over all that it is strongly mineral and has the dark quality of fine Douro grapes. Very chewy and concentrated but still manages to be scented on the mid palate. Very very dense, plenty of chew but tannins are tight and firm but neither hard nor aggressive. Big young wine but the fruit purity shines through. Long savoury aftertaste. (JH) 14.5%
Wine & Soul, Pintas 2008 Douro
Wine & Soul, Pintas Character 2009 Douro
Rich black cherry colour. Bright cherry colour. Rich dark fruit but with a savoury spicy overlay and the sweetness of oak still clear. Fragrant, lightly floral. Thick but melting tannins and a lovely fruit sweetness. Touch of spice on the long finish. Deep pile tannins and a fine freshness at the very end. Mouthwatering aftertaste and surprisingly fluid across the palate already. (JH) 14.5%
Wine & Soul, Pintas Character 2007 Douro
QUINTA DO ZIMBRO
Quinta do Zimbro, Zimbro Grande Reserva 2007 Douro
Black cherry colour. Lightly fragrant: small wild dark berries. Fine dry tannins but has a real elegance to it and lots of restraint. Some sweet red fruit on the mid palate. Scented and bone dry – refined tannins and finishes fresh with just a touch of oak sweetness at the very end. (JH) 13.5%
Quinta do Zimbro, Zimbro 2007 Douro
PORT
Dalva, Dry 20 Year Old White NV Port
Field blend of Malvasia Fina, Códega, Viosinho, Rabigato, Donzelinho. Dry white = drier style. Normal sweet white would be 110-20 g/l RS and this is 60 g/l.
Deep gold with a hint of ochre. Slighty nutty and lots of bitter orange, a bit like a Madeira on the nose. Sweet and rich but also fresh. Amazingly youthful and tangy with that orange zest finish and so long. (JH)
Dalva, Golden White Colheita 1963 Port
Slightly browner gold. RS 119 g/l. A little nutty but still has that lovely bitter orange note. Great power but also great freshness and youth. Dried apricot intensity. Still so much fruit. Must be racked once a year. Good casks (600 litres). (JH) 20%
Dalva, Golden White Colheita 1952 Port
Dalva, Ruby NV Port
Blackish purple. Spirity dark fruit. Lots of spice and pepper. Sweet damsons and very smooth tannins. Just about to be launched in Sweden (late 2011). Spicy damsons. Violet Touriga Nacional note but not too much. Fresh and juicy. Smells more like a sweet red wine. (JH) 19%
Dalva, 30 Year Old Tawny NV Port
The Dalva tawnies tend to be more consistent than their colheitas because they are aiming for a particular house style.
Sweeter on the nose than the 1975 Colheita – heather honey – and a little spirity. Drier style but lower acidity? Very fresh and finely balanced. RS 110 g/l, TA 5 g/l. Apricots. A little bit harsher than the 1975. (JH)
Dalva, Late Bottled Vintage 2007 Port
Dalva, Colheita 2000 Port
Reddish brown. Much more subtle on the nose than the old whites and spirit not evident. Still has some red fruit character but also that orange and spice to go with it. Very smooth and although it has lots of flavour it is subtle. Gentle and long. Could easily last five years, or a lot longer, in bottle. (JH) 20%
Dalva, Colheita 1995 Port
More browny ochre colour than the 2000 and less pink. Touch of walnut but also not very expressive on the nose. Spirit more evident on the nose. Really quite spirity but fresh and long. Bitter toffee or bitter orange toffee. Still very refined. (JH) 20%