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Keller 2017s from cask

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This article, devoted mainly to the latest vintage tasted in the cellars of the superstar of Rheinhessen, kicks off a week here at JancisRobinson.com devoted to the great white wine grape Riesling. 

What you need when your throat feels as if it is lined with razor blades is a serious sensory distraction that does not involve swallowing.

Such an intense experience was provided by a tasting in mid February of the Keller 2017 cask samples, hosted by Julia and Klaus Peter Keller at their winery in Flörsheim-Dalsheim about an hour’s drive south of Frankfurt, unless you get stuck in Friday-night...