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La Fleur Morange – the carpenter's St-Émilion

You may remember that when I took part in one of Decanter magazine’s several recent controversial reassessments of the Bordeaux 2005 vintage, there was one wine that stood out when we tasted blind. Stephen Browett of Farr Vintners and I took it for Ausone and a good Pavie respectively. 

I have now had a chance to taste virtually all extant vintages of this fascinating property and thought you might be interested in the results. As you can see, it seems as though carpenter Jean-François Julien and his wife are going from strength to strength. You may be interested in their back...