A two-handed audit of the offerings of a London importer with a small group of shops that has long been ahead of the UK game in its Italian range.
Walter writes Lea & Sandeman's Italian portfolio tasting is like a homecoming: lots of familiar names and solid reputations, quite a few of which Lea & Sandeman helped to cement in the UK market. Not an importer easily infatuated with new trends, perhaps explained by their private SW London clientele, they have a range in which skin-fermented whites, qvevri wines or indeed anything radical are notably absent. But what makes the...