On London's hottest September day since 1911 (34.4 °C/94 ºF) – the same day that Jancis was barefoot at the O W Loeb tasting – I was struggling with the heat in the latest venue chosen for the generic Chilean tasting, chosen more for its space and casual urban environment (F Block in The Old Truman Brewery, Brick Lane, London E1) than for its (non-existent) air conditioning. To be fair, who would anticipate the need for air conditioning in London in September when open windows will usually suffice? And they did set up massive fans to recirculate the warm...