See our guides to our extensive coverage of Germany's toothsome 2009s – and don't forget the more classical German 2008s.
I was going to wait before publishing these notes on German 2009s currently being offered by The Wine Society in the UK in order to give myself time to include wines in another, later offer from Tanners of Shrewsbury. But Nick and I bumped into The Wine Society's head buyer Sebastian Payne MW at a reception last night and he told me that their German 2009s had proved so popular that they are selling out fast. Hence this rather brief but, I hope, useful collection of very specific tasting notes. The image is taken from The Wine Society's online 2009 German Riesling offer. Notes on about a dozen of Tanners' wines will follow, and today we are also publishing these tasting notes on 2009s from two exciting producers in the Nahe.
Sebastian was also keen to point out that they are on the point of offering 2009s from that eminent Mosel producer J J Prüm, who used to be always one vintage behind everyone else. Alas neither I nor Michael Schmidt has tasted their 2009s – bring back the annual Grosser Ring tasting in London!
MOSEL
Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Kabinett 2009 Ruwer
Fine and pure and racy – etched. Doesn’t taste at all sweet because of the acidity. Very racy! Good stuff. Aperitif style. (JR)
8.5%
Drink
2010
–
2015
£13.95 The Wine Society
17
Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese 2009 Ruwer
Big and round and currant. Very flattering. Racy but with obvious fruitiness too. Racy and tingly. Well made! Lime marmalade notes. (JR)
8%
Drink
2012
–
2018
£13.95 The Wine Society
17 +
Kees-Kieren, Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
Light but tight, confident, very mineral nose. Real tingle and texture – and great balance and purity. A new name to me but one I will be looking out for. Member of the Bernkasteler Ring. Off dry to medium dry. (JR)
9%
Drink
2010
–
2015
£12.50 The Wine Society
17
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett 2009 Ruwer
Pale. Light but nervy with attractive full-blown smoky fruit. Very juicy and relatively forward. Good persistence and presence. Off dry and full bodied but very well balanced. Though I was aware of the sulphur. Asthmatics, beware! (JR)
10%
Drink
2010
–
2015
£12.50 The Wine Society
17
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
Complex, sophisticated. Somehow a cloud of complexity. Racy but with real depth. Should have long life. Off to medium dry at the moment. Smoky. (JR)
8.5%
Drink
2010
–
2020
£12.50 The Wine Society
17.5
Schloss Lieser, Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
Screwcap. Thomas Haag’s name is on the label. A bit of reduction evident on the nose. Pure fruit on the palate – like elderflowers. Very light and blossomy. Just aerate it a bit to maximise the pleasure. Very chewy end. Wait! (JR)
8.5%
Drink
2012
–
2017
£12.50 The Wine Society
16
Josef Schmitt, Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
Light and appley. No great tension. Light bodied with a little texture but pretty low key. (JR)
9%
Drink
2010
–
2014
£9.50 The Wine Society
15.5
Dr H Thanisch (Erben-Thanisch), Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mosel
Note the C in Berncasteler, and Doctor, on the label. A bit of sulphur here on the nose. Big and bold. Firm. This does not seem ethereal, though there is certainly ripeness – and it’s more embryonic than most. It does taste a teensy bit old-fashioned. (JR)
8.5%
Drink
2013
–
2020
£20 The Wine Society
16.5 +
MITTELRHEIN
Toni Jost – Hahnenhof, Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett 2009 Mittelrhein
Screwcap but actually rather soft on the nose – like being stroked by a feather. Medium dry with some mineral chewiness. Reasonably bright fruit but no great intensity. Actually pretty punchy lime juice... (JR)
9%
Drink
2010
–
2015
£12.50 The Wine Society
16
RHEINGAU
Johannishof, Johannisberg V Riesling Kabinett 2009 Rheingau
Fluted green bottle à la Schloss Vollrads. Smells quite evolved. Lots of lemon scent. Off-dry impression thanks to the fearsome acidity. Still some chew on the end. Unsettled for the moment. (JR)
9.5%
Drink
2012
–
2017
£11.95 The Wine Society
16
Franz Künstler, Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling Kabinett trocken 2009 Rheingau
Screwcap. Very fine, electric, intense, ripe white peach aromas with tingling acidity on the finish but quite enough fruit weight to counterbalance it. Lots of energy here. Bone dry and extremely vital. Ideally, I’d wait until next year before starting to enjoy its explosive fruit. (JR)
12.5%
Drink
2011
–
2014
£12.95 The Wine Society
17
PFALZ
Dr Bürklin-Wolf, Wachenheimer Gerümpel PC Riesling trocken 2009 Pfalz
Lightly funky nose and lots of youthful fermentation aromas. Piercing acidity, no heaviness at all. In fact quite a bit of richness on the end. But a little suppressed aromatically at present. Should open out into something rather splendid. (JR)
13%
Drink
2011
–
2015
£11.50 The Wine Society
16.5 +