This small selection of tasting notes on particularly fine rosés from two of Provence's top estates, d'Esclans owned by Sacha Lichine and Léoube by Sir Anthony and Lady Bamford of JCB and Daylesford Organic fame, should be read in conjunction with a Provençal vision of the future.
Caves d'Esclans, Whispering Angel Rosé 2009 Côtes de Provence
Light, ethereal, lifted nose with a hint of smokiness and a real dry undertow. Very savoury and appetising. This seems better than the previous vintage(s) of Whispering Angel. Very respectable indeed. Long. Lovely texture. In fact I suspect it's like a second wine in Bordeaux. You would take it for the grand vin so long as it were not served alongside same. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2010
–
2012
16.5
Ch d'Esclans, Esclans Rosé 2009 Côtes de Provence
Beautifully pale salmon colour and no shortage of personality. If anything, still a little young. I would ideally start to drink this only towards the end of 2010. Lots of herbal topnotes. Bone dry and with a certain smokiness. Lots of personality and I think this will probably only get more interesting. Very smooth texture. (JR)
Drink
2010
–
2012
17
Ch d'Esclans, Esclans Rosé 2008 Côtes de Provence
Pale salmon pink, darker than the 2009. A certain smokiness on the nose and more substance and fruit on the palate than the 2009. Satin texture but I can't see it improving. I'd say on the basis of this and the 2009 tasted so recently that the perfect time to drink this cuvée may be Oct – May in the year after the harvest. A winter rosé then?! Very impressively persistent. (JR)
13.5%
Drink
2009
–
2010
16.5
Ch d'Esclans, Garrus Rosé 2008 Côtes de Provence
Very herbal and somehow marine on the nose (though this estate is far, far inland). Bewitching lightness and dancing freshness. If this were a champagne house, this would be its Blanc de Blancs. Very persistent and complex though in thoroughly refreshing register. I'm impressed! (JR)
13%
Drink
2009
–
2012
18
Ch d'Esclans, Les Clans Rosé 2008 Côtes de Provence
Very very pale pink of a salmonish nature. This actually smells like a red wine. More Grenache than anything else. Broad and rich but with more acidity plus smoothness and delicacy than a red Grenache would have. Demands attention and is very long. Impressive food wine. (JR)
13%
Drink
2009
–
2012
17.5
Ch d'Esclans, Esclans Rosé 2007 Côtes de Provence
By now quite a dark pink. Nose fading. And so is the fruit. But it was clearly very well made. Appetising dry finish. (JR)
13.7%
Drink
2008
–
2010
16
Ch Léoube, Rosé 2009 Côtes de Provence
Very pale and pretty. Sweet mildly herby nose. Off dry on the palate – maybe just a tad too sweet? – but nice texture and certainly a good mouthful of flavour. Long. Far, far better than most of its peers. I'd actually rather drink it with food than on its own. Bring on that aioli! Just very slightly chewy on the finish still but there's no desperate hurry to drink this. (JR)
13%
Drink
2010
–
2011
16