While zooming around the foothills of the Himalayas with Jean-Guillaume Prats last week, inspecting LVMH's plans to make the best wine in China, I witnessed the most fascinating conversation in the front seat of the white Landcruiser. (Jean-Guillaume is seen here with it in front of a sacred, unclimbed peak at 7000 m near his new vineyards.) We were being (expertly) driven by Maxence Dulou, the Langon-born technical director of the project who has settled in – how's this for an address? – Shangri-la Old Town with his vivacious Chilean wife Paula and their two young children. This romantic, Tibetan...