Rivesaltes – 1945 at £540 a dozen...

You may remember Philippe Gayral from my article nearly a year ago, The archivist of Roussillon. He's the guy who for the last 15 years has been on a mission to bring the venerable vins doux naturels of the region to a wider public. My earlier article explains how and why this unique speciality has fallen into desuetude (never thought I would write that phrase, but it seems appropriate here).

He so liked my title that he has formed a company called L'Archiviste through which he sells his latest finds from the dusty corners of Roussillon cellars. Last month...