Winter: rosy cheeks and rosy wines.
Elizabeth Gabay’s latest book on the rosé wines of Southern France has reminded me, yet again, that on the whole we still don’t take pink wine seriously enough. But it has also given me many reasons to feel encouraged. Her book underlines that fact that there is a groundswell of change in attitude towards rosé. While there are, of course, producers who are making industrial rosé to meet what they believe are market trends, there are many who are taking great care to craft interesting, delicious, structured pink wines with depth, length and even...