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Roussillon magic

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France's wild, warm west defies all expectations when it comes to its gorgeously fresh, limpid wines.

I’ve said it so many times that I worry I sound like an old vinyl, needle stuck in a battered groove: Roussillon is magic.

It’s a region that defies rules and expectations. It’s France’s wild west. France’s misunderstood and overlooked hinterland. It’s a stubborn, antithetical wine region which should be too hot, too dry, too hard to make wine that is anything other than big, hot and hard. The landscape is carved by xeric winds, and the wines should be thus carved...