You may remember that I was recently treated to an audience with France’s Minister of Agriculture, together with Bernard Farges, the man charged with looking after the fortunes of those making AC Bordeaux and AC Bordeaux Supérieur, ie 55% of the entire wine output of the Bordeaux region. (That’s by volume, not value.)
I went from my ministerial breakfast to a blind tasting of the crème de la crème of the latest vintage of Bordeaux Supérieur at Michelin-starred Ledoyen. This seems to be an annual ritual for Paris’s wine media and we all submitted our scores before the identity...