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The delights of Rabigato

More Portuguese table wine, I'm afraid, but white this time – and very delicious too. Quite a find and made from Rabigato, a grape variety that has been fast disappearing from Douro vineyards because of its low yields.

Academic Virgilio Loureiro, who until recently consulted for Quintas de Maias and dos Roques (see Northern Portugal's other red table wines) and made some intriguing white Encruzado there, was loth to see a vine with such potential disappear so has created single varietals (yes – for once I do mean this wine word and not the vine word 'varieties') from the...