The Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration in New Zealand usually offers delegates – local producers, Pinot-enamoured consumers and journalists alike – a chance to worship at the footstool of red burgundy, and it was noticeable that most of the wines being poured at the gala dinner on the last night, sometimes from precious bottles tucked out of sight, reflected this genuflection to the spiritual home of Pinot Noir. Even if the masterclass showing Central Otago Pinots was all about the search for authentic local styles (see Central Otago Pinot Noir – in search of style), the love affair with...