Wines should be a pure expression of a vintage and a place that's as specific as possible, right? Wrong, it would seem.
The combination of ongoing climate chaos and the shifting demographics of wine drinkers have driven some California wine producers to embrace formerly unfashionable approaches to making wine, with some surprising results.
Few things seem more sacred when it comes to telling the story of a wine than time and place. The last 200 years of fine-wine sales have been, if nothing else, a continuous disquisition by industry to consumers on the value of vintage and site. This lesson...