VDP 2011s – Mosel, Saar & Ruwer

Nose presently dominated by the flinty-herbaceous expression of spontaneous fermentation, this estate Riesling does not aim to seduce you, but hits home with an uncompromisingly dry punch. Plenty of substance, will need a bit of time to unfold. (MS)

Cask sample. Grown on grey slate, and not shy to express its provenance. Scientists insist that slate or minerals cannot be sucked up through the roots, but can they explain, why this wine has such a dusty and smoky concentration and intense flavour reminiscent of quinine? Bone dry, long and not for the squeamish. (MS)

Cask sample. Clemens Busch can also do classic Kabinett, but though there is plenty of fruit and a generous dose of residual sugar, you do not get short-changed on dusty minerality. Add a delicate, herbal contribution and you have a multi-facetted Kabinett with fair substance. (MS)

Cask sample. 2011 marks the return of exotic fruit after the more restrained performance of 2010. A sprinkling of mixed spices adds a fascinating aromatic tangent, and though this wine is fresh and juicy, its true strength lies in its elegance. Generously sweet it still remains more graceful than opulent, a mouthwatering acidity taking us into a long finish. (MS)

Cask sample. What sets the Goldkapsel apart from the ordinary Spätlese? The spice is spicier and may be inadequately described as the taste of gingerbread on cloud nine. The fruit is not necessarily more tropical, but with even more zest, sweet grapefruit, mandarin and orange cause contractions of the palate. Extract, substance, concentration and length may not be descriptors of flavour, but they are fair indicators of quality. (MS)

Cask sample. It is often assumed that Auslese has to be superior to Spätlese, but I am not always a dedicated follower of that fashion. Lush and luscious can sometimes dominate at the expense of graceful and elegant. The Marienburg Auslese does not fall into that trap, but at this early stage the opulence of the sweet tropical fruit has not as yet gelled with the acidity to provide the perfect balance. Of course it can be drunk soon, but there is a potential of great complexity that would be wasted. I give 17 for now, and 18 for later. (MS)

Still yeasty, with just a hint of flint on the nose. Minerality also takes centre stage on the palate, though the 2011 is a little rounder and not quite as savage as the 2010. (MS)

When less means more! In 2011 the crop from the old vines of the Laurentius vineyard may be small, but is packed with citrus fruit aromas. Juicy grapefruit is given a dash of salt for good minerally measure. Generous extract and velvety texture combine for unadulterated trocken drinking pleasure. (MS)

A gentle citrus fruit aroma emerges from the mists of fermentation. The taste buds are tickled by a mouthwatering grapefruit flavour. A mere hint of dusty minerality adds further promise to a very harmonious rendition of feinherb. Seductive off-dry smoothie! (MS)

Still in transition from yeasty aromas to an attractive scent of fresh apples. On the palate the green fruit is really ripe and sweet and complemented by some citrusy notes. Maybe not the most complex of Kabinetts, but the balance between acidity, sugar and fruit leaves nothing to be desired. Really fresh and very tempting to drink right now! (MS)

The Goldtröpfchen Spätlese is oozing with fruit bordering onto the exotic. This luscious impression is further emphasised by a very generous measure of residual sugar, and, despite a sound backbone of acidity, we are treated to one of the most opulent renditions of 2011 Mosel Spätlese. Before anyone begins to suspect damnation by faint praise, a delicate sprinkling of ginger spice adds the secret ingredient, which any Goldtröpfchen with aspirations of complexity needs. (MS)

Tropical fruit, a dash of fresh honey and notions of caramel and toffee compete and cooperate to deliver an exercise in luscious concentration. There’s also that intriguing smell of shoemakers’ glue of old which was lost when shoes were no longer cobbled by hand, but redetected (in my case) in the sphere of wine when I came across botrytis for the first time. The Apotheke may be quite voluptuous, but it is far from cloying due to a perfect measure of juicy acidity. (MS)

The nose may be gentle, but the palate pulls no punches with a very pure and pronounced expression of salty minerality. Fruit, acidity and body are banished to mere supporting roles, but do it well enough to produce an honest dry wine, the strength of which clearly lies in partnering food. (MS)

Oliver Haag, and his father before him, could well be described as salt of the earth, and so could some of their wines, including this one. Minerality absolutely dominates the Brauneberger trocken in a concentrated salty expression. Substance of flavour, a powerful stature and excellent length leave no doubts about the inherent quality. (MS)

Despite some remnants of post-fermentation trauma, the Juffer tops its more straightforward siblings by bringing a pronounced expression of fruit to the ubiquitous minerally backbone. Tropical but not exotic, lime and grapefruit are the perfect partners for the Juffer’s salty terroir interpretation. This is a very powerful demonstration of the Mosel’s ability to produce serious trocken. (MS)

The label does not indicate a style, but the residual sugar content places this wine firmly in the feinherb category. A little citrus fruit helps to take the gritty edge of the minerally expression, though essentially this could still be defined as a dry wine. Quite chewy and tactile at this early stage, and like all its predecessors not lacking in substance or depth. (MS)

The Juffer adds its own distinctive contribution of spice and stone fruit to an almost gritty expression of minerality. It would be patronising to describe the Juffer as an all-rounder, but its harmonious balance of juicy fruit, fine spice, sound acidity and firm minerality would make this one of the safest bets to suit most palates. (MS)

Delicate floral notes mingle with gentle citrus fruit aromas. A generous sweet expression of fruit is well balanced by juicy acidity and fine notions of herbs and spices. A subtle bitter-sweet flavour lifts the finish and rounds off an invigoratingly lively performance. (MS)

Still quite restrained on the nose and with a mere herbaceous hint of spontaneous fermentation, there is enough room for a gentle exhibition of citrus fruit. Not so shy on the palate, we are treated to a mouthwateringly juicy expression of orange and mandarin flavours lifted by a delicate notion of bitter peel. A lively and invigorating style of Spätlese, where the role of residual sugar is to entice rather than take over the show. (MS)

Fine aromas of citrus fruit and spices open the curtain to an impressive presentation of orange, mandarin and grapefruit flavours, all inclusive of juice, pith and zesty peel. A delicate touch of cloves and a subtle note of bitterness add intrigue to an already complex composition. There is nothing cloying about the expression of the ample residual sugar. Luscious but fresh, exotic but not tropical, it leaves enough room for a deft minerally touch, and once the exuberance of youth has subsided, we have every reason to expect a masterful demonstration of elegance. (MS)

Pear drops pure on the nose, very much still fermentation-affected. Very dry, with a light earthy touch of minerality, very straightforward. (MS)

Very closed on the nose. The palate is focused on minerality with a pronounced salty expression, ably supported by a gentle splash of lime and a sound backbone of acidity. (MS)

Green and yellow fruit on the nose is given a slightly flinty edge. Grapefruit, pear and melon form a successful fruity partnership that benefits from well-judged restraint on the residual sugar front and delivers a classic definition feinherb. Quite racy and not short on mineral content, this would be my wine of choice from Markus Haag’s portfolio. (MS)

Apple and pears spiked with a few cloves result in an attractive little number lifted by a sprinkling of dusty spice on the finish. Charming Kabinett. (MS)

In my mind very much in a transitional phase. With lashings of luscious peaches, one thing this Auslese does not lack is fruit. A little volatile acidity lifts the performance, but apart from the usual suspects of residual sugar and (a restrained measure of) acidity, any other components which could contribute to complexity seem to be well shackled at the moment. (MS)

Light floral aroma mingles with notes of stone fruit. On the palate an almost gravelly expression of minerality and a deft touch of quinine bitterness emphasise the trocken aspiration of this wine. Uncompromisingly dry, but with plenty of substance and length. (MS)

Cask sample. A real alternative to the previous trocken, the Piesporter seems in the mood for compromise. Apple, pear and even clementines make an appearance, toning down the effects of the still seriously minerally contribution. Light notes of almond kernel add a dab of gentle bitterness. Still very dry, but with some attractive fruity and herbal distractions. (MS)

Cask sample. Herbaceous aromas of spontaneous fermentation, even a hint of sorrel, keep a tight grip on any fruity ambitions at this early stage. The customary spice trademark of the Goldtröpfchen refuses to be suppressed and on the finish a delicious expression of Seville orange manages to assert itself. A fine Kabinett that needs a bit of time. (MS)

Cask sample. Very restrained at this early stage, but the palate does reveal some ripe local fruit, lifted by notes of spice, herbs and even a cheeky dash of honey. Despite ample residual sugar there is plenty of charm and elegance. A delightful sonata once the orchestra gets into full swing. (MS)

Cask sample. Despite the constraints of infancy, the Ohligsberg shows a distinctive individuality of character, and luscious fruit meets up with Lebkuchen (ginger and nutmeg biscuits) to produce one of the more powerful interpretations of Mosel Spätlese. The puzzle of exquisite flavour is completed by a finely pitched acidity. (MS)

Cask sample. A fine fragrance of almost tropical fruit and exotic spices only hints at the wealth of flavour on the palate. The generous expression of fruit is ably supported by a fine balance of spices, herbs and minerality. Maybe the 2011 is a little more opulent than the 2010, but with all the individual components in perfect harmony with each other, the performance is one of exquisite elegance rather than overwhelming power. (MS)

With just a weeny remnant of pear drops, more attractive green fruit aromas are already beginning to emerge. The restraint in alcohol and body pays off with a fresh and clean appley expression. The most delicate of salty touches adds the perfect dose of minerality to make this a title contender in the lightweight trocken class. (MS)

What a difference a year makes! If 2010 was like Audrey Hepburn in a bad mood, 2011 returns to a far more graceful performance. The green fruit is crisp but juicy, lifted by a slightly salty accent and given the merest of tactile edges. An excellent length provides plenty of opportunity to savour the fine balance of slender body, mouthwatering fruit and slatey expression. (MS)

As sure as bears live in the woods, the Karthäuserhof can produce outstanding trocken, and I applaud those who do not understand this cryptic mystery. In other words, this is a great trocken from the Ruwer, and I would say that it needed a vintage like 2011 to perform this miracle. From the hidden depths of the vineyard the old vines have extracted a minerally character of such complexity of expression that words like dusty and salty say more about the limits of descriptive vocabulary than about the taste of the wine. Yes, there is fruit, yes, there is acidity, yes, this is great trocken! (MS)

The Tyrell’s Edition obviously set out with a different goal from that of the Alte Reben (old vines) and this manifests itself in a more elegant and less challenging style of trocken. A little less compact, the emphasis of the Spätlese appears to lie in a more refreshing acidity and greater content of zippy fruit. A serious effort nevertheless, and not totally devoid of the odd minerally sparkle. (MS)

The top Ruwer estates have always been suppliers of some of the raciest Kabinett editions in the Mosel region, delicate, delicious and charming. The Karthäuserhof remains a stalwart of this tradition, and 2011 proves no exception with a great interaction of ripe green and yellow fruit, refreshing acidity and a dash of flinty minerality. Maybe there’s a little more stuffing due to global warming, but the overall performance remains light and lively. (MS)

Local fruit is joined by citrus fruit aromas, and, though on the nose the fragrance of aromas remains fairly restrained at this early stage, the palate is far more generous with its expression of green, yellow and exotic fruit. Nevertheless, the Karthäuserhof Spätlese is not trying to overwhelm with lashings of residual sugar, but peps up a finely tuned acidity with the merest hint of petillance to perfect a lively and charming performance. (MS)

Clean and fresh expression of citrus fruit is supported by juicy grapefruit flavour with just a dab of minerality. Quite broad style of entry-level trocken with well-integrated acidity. (MS)

Aimed at the trocken light market, 11 g/l RS make the Satyricus a well-balanced dry entry-level Riesling which scores some extra points with a gently salty, tonic-like accent. Uncomplicated and fresh, this provides an excellent stepping stone into the world of dry Riesling. (MS)

On the flinty side and almost medicinal, the Lay is quite uncompromisingly dry. I have no problem with that, but am not a fan of the tactile spritz that certainly injects a lively expression. This could just be a post-fermentation stress syndrome, in dubio pro reo. (MS)

A gentle fragrance combines aromas of pear drops and citrus fruit. The palate exhibits an invigorating combination of fresh sweet apple and lively acidity. Once again there is a fair amount of petillance, but the residual sugar of the Kabinett is much better suited to this uplifting experience. Quite straightforward, but very pleasant. (MS)

A plethora of fruit aromas from Bramley apple to some quite exotic notes are given a further lift by the merest touch of botrytis. Once again the performance on the palate is very lively, but really well balanced by the customary spice donation from the Würzgarten’s red slate. A titillating teaser of a Spätlese. (MS)

Attractive gentle green fruit aromas occupy the olfactory perception. Fresh and with a light minerally note; this is quite a step up on the 2010. Honest trocken without being too intense. (MS)

Gentle fragrance of green fruit is well supported by an idiosyncratic expression of minerality. Aniseed and quinine come to the twisted mind. Fair body and substance. (MS)

The nose is still very restrained, but on the palate the old vines (alte Reben) appear to have pulled out all the mineral stops (from the soil). Fennel and aniseed pump up the spice. With this wine, von Kesselstatt throw its hat into the trocken ring; concentration and substance are outstanding. (MS)

Delicate green fruit and citrus aromas find a fresh and lively expression on the palate, ably supported by a cool touch of wet stone minerality. The 2010 appeared to need more help from residual sugar, whereas the 2011 is confidently and successfully cruising along the trocken borderline. Light, lively and seductive. (MS)

Whereas the fruit is still fresh and green, with ripe appley aromas taking the lead, the slim line of the Ruwer is replaced by more substance and body, but not at the expense of a firm mineral grip with a chalky edge. Just off dry, its greater volume affords a slightly sweeter expression. (MS)

The magic of Scharzhofberger tends to favour its scores, but years of British indoctrination frequently make me lean towards the underdogs. Always charming and racy, Kesselstatt’s 2011 Kabinett sports an additional spicy tangent that acts as a perfect foil for the zippy citrus fruit and smoky minerality. Classic Scharzhofberger with an exquisite balance between restrained residual sugar and expertly pitched acidity. (MS)

Apple, pear and peach aromas enter a delightful arrangement with delicate nuances of ginger spice for another delicious rendition of Goldtröpfchen Kabinett. Pack a few of these in your basket and forget the Pimms at Henley Regatta. (MS)

2011 has come up with a very generous Scharzhofberger at the Kesselstatt estate. Lusciously juicy fruit replaces the crisper notes of 2010, but the trademark of flinty minerality remains a constant. Add some finely tuned herbs and spices and you cross the threshold from the delicious to the exquisite. (MS)

Clear expression of green fruit on the nose, a hint of spontaneous aromas is still lingering. The palate is tickled by a zippy grapefruit flavour, a delicate salty tang on the nose, mainly peach, rich texture, salty minerality, excellent substance for an entry trocken. (MS)

Fresh green fruit is well complemented by a gentle flowery touch. Zesty grapefruit and lemony acidity get together for a mouthwatering citrus fruit expression, producing one of the most lively and exhilarating Kabinett trocken experiences of 2011. (MS)

Spontaneous fermentation still showing its herbaceous hand, but green and yellow fruit notes coming to the fore. On the palate the Lieser Spätlese trocken offers an amazing consistency of slaty minerality, which in 2011 is ably supported by an attractive notion of spice and the gentle bitterness of fresh apple peel. Rich texture and a long lively finish round off a very accomplished exercise in Mosel trocken. (MS)

Although a little cream cheese still exerts a gentle lactic influence on the nose, flinty, fumy and spicy aromas indicate more serious aspirations. The lighter side of feinherb is taken care of by a lovely touch of residual sugar and lively expression of refreshing acidity. Perfect off-dry interpretation of Mosel Riesling with an intriguing note of cloves (or is it nutmeg) on the finish. (MS)

A most gentle remnant of herbaceousness is succeeded by an intriguing combination of apple and cinnamon aromas. Despite a light minerally touch, the primary appeal of this Kabinett is its mouthwatering expression of juicy yellow fruit. A racy Riesling that dances on the palate. (MS)

Through the mist of spontaneous fermentation rises the aroma of ripe yellow fruit. Marinated plums and mirabelles ooze opulent fruit flavours, a sprinkling of cinnamon heightening sensory delights even further. A finely accentuated acidity complements the customary deft touch of minerality to culminate in one of the highlights of Mosel Spätlese 2011. (MS)

Not quite as spicy as the Niederberger Helden, the Juffer Sonnenuhr Spätlese appears to have its focus set on fruit and minerality. The style is almost opulent, with a luscious expression of juicy sweet grapefruit making the early running, to be superseded by a subtle flinty touch on the finish. Outstanding length! (MS)

Nose still quite restrained, very gentle notes of lanolin or glycerine, as in hand cream, giving a first idea of the richness to come. The concentration of gorgeous tropical fruit flavours is complemented to perfection by a velvety texture and silky mouth feel. Any fears of cloying stickiness are totally dispelled by a lovely fresh expression. I feel that the true potential of very young Auslesen is sometimes difficult to assess, as the generosity of residual sugar and fruit tends to overpower the finer nuances which will ultimately determine complexity. If substance, depth and length of the Helden Auslese are anything to go by, we shall be in for a treat in a few years’ time. (MS)

Floral notes mingle with a gentle aroma of green fruit. On the palate a steely edge sets a well-executed contrast to the juicy apple and melon flavour. Clean, fresh, and as far as dry quaffers in 1-litre bottles go, utterly, utterly... not bad! (MS)

Still a little yeasty on the nose, the Grauschiefer once again does not fail to reflect its grey slate provenance. As befits a Kabinett, all components are delivered in delicate measures, but the dusty and salty elements of minerality provide a perfect foil for the ripe green fruit. (MS)

44 hl/ha was quite a generous yield for the 70-year-old vines, but in addition to the usual suspects of herbs, spices and minerality, 2011 has managed to add some wonderfully aromatic peach fruit. Great concentration and excellent structure make this a firm trocken favourite, and to judge by the length of finish, there is more to come. (MS)

Delicate apple and pear aromas precede a perfectly pitched sweet and sour performance on the palate, though 2011 has a little more residual sugar and a little less acidity than 2010. Nevertheless, still quite racy and with the slightest dab of flinty minerality. (MS)

Sweet Bramley apple and fresh citrus fruit aromas set the scene for one of the sweetest Saar Spätlese performances of 2011. Whereas 2010 impressed with a cool freshness and cutting racy edge, 2011 almost overwhelms with sweet generosity and juicy succulence. I am sure the finer elements of spice and minerality are there, but will have to bide their time to make their presence felt. (MS)

Benefiting from a particularly hot micro-climate, the Saarfeilser lends itself to the production of a drier style of Saar wine. The nose does not show any signs of spontaneous fermentation and is pleasantly clean and flowery. The palate takes on a far more serious expression, savoury, salty and really dry, it makes no bones about its minerally provenance. (MS)

Floral aromas mingle with citrus fruit and a gentle chalky note. On the palate grapefruit excels in all its variations from juice to pith and zesty peel. The acidity is pitched just right to deliver a racy performance that is further lifted by a gentle notion of herbs. Quite dry and almost tactile but nevertheless delicious interpretation of feinherb. (MS)

The customary spices of the Bockstein add a little extra intrigue to the fragrance of ripe yellow fruit. On the palate citrus fruit and spice are partnered by a refreshing touch of gently bitter peel, possibly an herbaceous remnant of spontaneous fermentation. A very restrained measure of residual sugar leaves plenty of room for spices and fruit to shine, a deft touch of acidity completing a successful interpretation of lively Saar Kabinett. (MS)

Slightly sweeter and richer than the Bockstein, the Goldtröpfchen’s generous fruit expression is given an extra lift by a gentle notion of cloves. Though relatively restrained there is still enough acidity to support a juicy sweet and sour performance that demonstrates this vineyard’s outstanding potential. A delicate dash of spice on the final furlong lifts the performance of this Kabinett to a higher level. (MS)

Still quite herbaceous and reluctant to show its fruity side. On the palate we encounter a Spätlese which demonstrates ambitions well beyond the fruity and cheerful. Though the flavour is still influenced to some extent by the herbal expression of spontaneous fermentation, a combination of quinine and dusty undertones signals serious mineral intent. A gentle peel bitterness adds further intrigue, whereas the usual suspects of residual sugar and crisp acidity are kept well under wrap, but will no doubt come to the fore as the Laurentiuslay continues to develop. (MS)

The zest of grapefruit peel mingles with a fine dusting of nutmeg to create the unique fragrance that is Bockstein. Sweeter in its expression of citrus fruit than in the previous vintage, the 2011 still manages to catch that magic combination of subtle spice and dusty minerality so typical of its terroir. A sophisticated Spätlese for the finer moments of life. (MS)

Generous fragrance of ripe yellow fruit issues an open invitation to enjoy the harmonious combination of fruit and spice on the palate. The temptation of an exuberance of residual sugar has been successfully restrained by a perfectly judged measure of acidity. Lively, elegant and utterly delicious. (MS)

Delicious concoction of peach and apricot aromas with the merest hint of cinnamon dusting sets the scene for a perfectly executed demonstration of ripe juicy flavours. Peaches, nectarines and zesty oranges deliver a mouthwatering crescendo of fruit. What you taste is what you get, and while this may not be top of the pile in terms of complexity, it beats most of the competition in terms of sheer generosity. (MS)

An exquisite fragrance of exotic fruit raises expectations of great delight, and the palate does not disappoint. A refined expression of mouthwatering blood orange combines luscious fruit with juicy acidity and a splash of zesty peel. A light dusting of ginger spice adds complexity, a creamy texture a touch of decadence. The 2011 is definitely more opulent than the elegant 2010, both masterpieces in their own right. (MS)