I have attended the annual showing of the most recent vintage of Grosse Gewächse in Wiesbaden at the end of August without fail since its inception in 2002. In its first year, only one-third of the seats at the impressive venue of the Kolonnaden in the centre of Wiesbaden were taken. In 2018 a second room was opened up in addition to the main hall to accommodate more than 150 wine critics, writers and merchants from all over the world. Anyone who is anything in wine, it seems, now wants to get an early glimpse of what the latest vintage...