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Albariño's many guises

Camino dos Faros sign in the bracken

From seafood to beef, cheese to vegetables, Albariño can match just about any food – it just depends on the wine's style.

‘The sweet one? Or the straight one?’

The question stymied me. I’d asked for a glass of Albariño. 

While my shameful paucity of Spanish amounted to salud and una copa de vino, por favor, and we were in a part of Spain where Google Translate had rapidly proved to be the only thing between us and starvation, I was still sure I’d heard correctly. Sweet Albariño? Straight Albariño? Did she think I was asking for vermut? She...