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What to eat with Zierfandler and Rotgipfler

A selection of beef dishes at Koloman in NYC

The pairing possibilities make it well worth the search for wines from these two Austrian grapes – especially if you're a meat eater. Above, a selection of beef dishes at Koloman in NYC (photo by Nick Johnson).

‘You want what?’ the wine clerk asked, squinting his eyes as if it would help him figure out what I was on about. ‘Zierfandler. It’s an Austrian grape; it makes delicious white wines.’ Looking dubious, he nodded toward the Austrian whites, but said pointedly, ‘but the red wines are here’.

That was just one experience in my quest to slake the thirst Julia’s...