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Whisky, from France?

Wooden casks of all sorts at Maison Lineti whisky distillery

Savouring the Auld Alliance in liquid and stimulating form. Above, a Demptos cask, one of many types used to mature whisky at Maison Lineti in Bordeaux.

‘French whisky?’ The eyebrows shoot up. You can tell the thought process already underway. The French make Cognac, Armagnac, Calvados, fruit eaux-de-vie. Why on earth would they make whisky as well? The answer is surprisingly simple. Because they drink it.

Cognac sales in France are low – it’s always been destined for export – while Armagnac, Calvados and the fruit spirits are regional specialities. If there is one spirit which has national appeal, it’s whisky...